Spring and Fall Rose Tonic

This is extracted from Rose Magazine. An interesting write up on applying rose tonic. http://www.rosemagazine.com/articles04/rose_tonic/

by By Mark Whitelaw, Kindly Provided by Laura Whitelaw

Here's a copy of my Spring and Fall Rose Tonic. It is a modification of a recipe passed to me by a very wise and 83-years young rosarian. It assumes your soil pH ranges from 6.5 to 7.5, clay-based and/or rich in calcium.

8 parts alfalfa meal
2 parts cottonseed meal (arsenic-free)
2 parts rock phosphate (or colloidal phosphate; but not super phosphate)
2 parts bone meal
1 part blood meal
1 part Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate)

Thoroughly combine ingredients and apply 1 cup (.24 l) of mixture for each foot (30 cm) of shrub height. Lightly scratch the mixture into the soil using caution not to harm the roots. Water-in thoroughly.

This mixture is good in the spring and the fall, and can be applied as a 'tonic' to all blooming perennials, roses, azaleas and fruit-producing trees and plants.

- If soil pH is above 7.5 (and it shouldn't be), reduce the Epsom salts by half to reduce the possibility of applying too much magnesium.

- For new plantings, add 1 part Greensand (0-1-5) to the Fall Tonic

- The NPK of the constituents varies by manufacturer; however, on average these proportions will create a 50-110-20 (or approx. 2-4-1 NPK ratio) slow-release, environment-safe fertilizer. It will not "burn" the foliage or contaminate the soil.

- Blood and bone meals may attract dogs and cats. If this is a problem, repel with pepper spray around the watering well.

- Feather meal may be substituted for alfalfa meal, but the quantities should be cut in half. Feather meal is also quicker to decompose and will not provide sustained nitrogen release beyond about 21 days. Furthermore, alfalfa has micronutrients not found in feather meal.

- Alfalfa meal is quite dusty; a dust mask should be worn when mixing the ingredients.

I apply this tonic immediately after spring and fall pruning (here, late Feb and late Aug). It is so effective, supplemental fertilizations are not required but once-a-month in the spring - until I let the roses rest during summer's heat. For supplemental fertilizations, I use a blend of fish emulsion, kelp liquid concentrate, and un-sulfured molasses @ 2 Tbsp, 1 Tbsp, and 1 Tbsp (30ml, 15ml, 15ml) respectively per gallon of water and pour this around the watering well of each rose.

It is best, if you have a lot of roses, to purchase the ingredients in bulk from the farm/ranch or feed store vis-à-vis the nursery or mailorder. For example, alfalfa meal at the feed store costs about $8 for 40 lbs. At the nursery, it costs $7 for 4 lbs. - and it's the same stuff, just packaged with a prettier label. Use caution when purchasing from a feed store, however, to ensure the alfalfa does not contain salt, as this will be detrimental to your soil. (Try a taste test.)

And if you grow roses in pots or sell them commercially, sprinkle 1 or 2 cups of mixture around the top of the pot. When you water the plants, the fertilizer acts like a timed-release mixture that can cost much, much more.

It should also be noted that some rosarians who live in cold climates report they have reduced aphid and thrips infestations if they withhold fertilizing until after first flush in the spring, thus letting the rose generate growth and blooms from the stored energy in the roots (e.g., like bulb perennials). This would not work for us who live in warmer climates because first flush may not end until May or June, when our temperatures quite regularly get above 95°F(35°C) and our roses like to rest during summer's heat.

I hope that helps a little. But remember, this is what works for me and my garden. (By Mark Whitelaw, Kindly Provided by Laura Whitelaw)

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May 09 Bloom

by Richard Chew

Its May bloom display!

The bloom this month experienced some burnt due to hotter weather and over dose of fertilizing.

Despite the burnt, the flower petals were densely formed.







The following is the outcome of the Long Burst flower bud.












Short burst flower bud







Purple rose. Strange because it changes colour to dark pink over time.












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Therapeutic Benefits of Roses [EXT]

I found this from Rose Magazine at http://www.rosemagazine.com/pages/therapeutic.asp

It explains the therapeutic benefits of roses.

by Andrea Grant

Therapeutic Benefits of Roses

Aside from providing an aesthetic appeal, which contributes to the overall pleasure and feeling of well being, roses have a genuine practical use in our regimens of good health. Rose oil and rose water are derived from the flowers and rose hips have many valuable properties.

It is suspected that the rose was probably the very first flower from which rose oil and rose water were distilled; possibly in the 10th Century Persia. Today, most of the rose oils are still produced in that region of the world. A very large quantity of rose petals is needed to produce a very small quantity of oil. Thus, it is very costly. Thankfully only a small amount of rose oil is needed in therapeutic preparations. It is not used in its concentrated state, but rather in a carrier oil such as almond, jojoba, and grapeseed.

Generally rose oil and rose water (a by-product of distillation) are used topically rather than internally; with the exception of aromatherapy.In this case the rose essence may be inhaled, via steam or diffusion. Three varieties of rose are used in commercial production of rose oil and rose water: Rosa Centifolia, Rosa Damascena and Rosa Gallica. The product will vary slightly in colour between these species but the therapeutic benefits are the same.

The use of the rose is far and varied. It has a long history in its use in folk remedies, especially in the area of skincare. It is suitable for all skin types, but it is especially valuable for dry, sensitive or aging skins. It has a tonic and astringent effect on the capillaries just below the skin surface, which makes it useful in diminishing the redness caused by enlarged capillaries. It is important to ensure that the product contains the genuine natural rose oil. Many manufacturers label their products containing rose essence but it could be synthetic. Synthetic rose ingredients have no therapeutic value at all! Remember, with authentic rose oil, a little goes a long way.Certainly rosewater is a less expensive way to provide skincare. It is very soothing to irritated skin.It is also a tonic and antiseptic. Rosewater has been shown to be very valuable as an antiseptic in eye infections.

The rose also offers a soothing property to the nerves and emotional /psychological state of mind. It is regarded as a mild sedative and anti-depressant. It is increasingly used in treatments for conditions of stress: nervous tension, peptic ulcers, heart disease, among others. There is indication that rose essence may also positively influence digestion, bile secretion, womb disorders and circulation. In addition, a tea made with rose petals (pour 150 ml of boiling water over 1 /2 grams of rose petals) often soothes a mild sore throat.

Rose hips (the flowers which have swollen to seed) are an excellent source of vitamins A, B3, C, D and E. They also contain bioflavonoids, citric acid, flavonoids, fructose, malic acid, tannins and zinc. Taken in the form of tea they are good for infections, particularly bladder infections. Rose hip tea is also used in the treatment of diarrhea. It is an especially good source of vitamin C.

To best use rose oil for topical purposes (i.e. skin care), use approximately 8 drops of essential rose oil for every 10 ml of carrier oil. Apply directly onto skin. Rosewater may be used with abandon. There is no such thing as too much of it. For emotional wholeness and wellness, rose oil may also be used in a room diffuser, aromatherapy ring (a brass ring placed atop a hot light bulb will work to evaporate the essential essence throughout the room) or in steaming hot water on the stove. Whatever works!

To brew rose hip tea, which by the way is truly delicious, roughly chop up entire rose hips. Cover with distilled or purified water and boil for 30 minutes (longer if desired). Strain through a fine strainer or cheesecloth and add a bit of honey if desired. One can also find Rose Hip Tea in the local health food stores. The essence of rose need not only be used to treat ailments. Whether inhaled and enjoyed from a freshly cut bouquet of sumptuous blooms or splashed on as rosewater after a shower or bath, it is simply a pleasure to be enjoyed by all!
(By Andrea Grant)


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Short Burst & Long Burst Flower Bud

by Richard Chew

In this posting I like to share some of the blooms that I have experience in my garden while I experimented with my fertilizing.

Short Burst Flower Bud

Short Burst Flower is my definition to describe a way the rose plant develop its flower bud.

It produces strong growth, but very little energy is channeled for stem and leaves development. In fact all of its energy is channeled for flower development instead. In the picture below you can see the bud stem develop without leaves (or very small leaves), and its stem growth is unusually short before it begins flower bud development. The stem growth length is usually up to about 5cm.
















However the flower buds are quite well developed when it opens. Though the petal count seems lesser, the petals are quite well developed.

My assumption of getting Short Burst is knowing the timing of fertilizing, pruning and dosage of fertilizer applied. If the routine is altered, it changes its growth stage.

I find that Short Burst is good if I want repeat flowering without the rose plant being too "leggy". The only setback is that it may be harmful to rose plant in the long run, as this method doesn't promote new leaves development. I reckon if the rose plant has healthy bush, then attempting Short Burst won't do any harm.

The next thing that I like to share is the Long Burst. Long Burst is my definition to describe extreme stem growth with little leaves development. Its 'child' stem thickness is almost equal to 'parent' stem thickness.





The stems with young red leaves are the new stems growth. The picture above is considered as 'semi' Long Burst. However the 'extreme' Long Burst would be like the picture below. The stem growth is fast (accelerating growth); all its energy seemingly is channeled for stem development alone.




No leaves are developed at all unlike the 'semi' version. And its energy for flower bud development is conserved untill the end when the stem completes it growth cycle.

The picture below is the flower bud fully developed. The flower bud size is larger.





As it opens, the higher petals number are quite noticeable.

I reckon that going for Long Burst has its advantages too. If I want to have a fuller shrub with more stronger stems, then going for Long Burst helps to develop a more balanced shrub size. Of course there are additional work need to be done to ensure it spreads evenly, that is to peg/train the stems/canes.










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Growing Rose - First 90 days - Part 5

by Richard Chew

If you have done the fertilizing as mentioned in Part 4, you are now ready to see new growth.

After fertilizing, it is time to prune to make way for new growth. I have posted about pruning, you may want to read it at http://rosegrowing.blogspot.com/2009/03/pruning-for-more-growth.html because I don't have the intention to repeat it here.

However I will add some extra points on the dos and don'ts here.

If you just got your rose plant from the nursery and probably just transplanted the rose, it will take time to adapt to your garden environment. One of the major factor is the rate of transpiration. Transpiration to plants is like us breathing and exhaling air.

The rate of transpiration increases during warmer or hotter weather.

As the new roses adapt to new environment, the rate of transpiration or rate of fluid flow in the stems changes. Larger stems require stronger push (pressure) than smaller stem to achieve minimum fluid flow in stems. If the flow stagnants, then the stems will die-back or the leaves will wilt. If the plant is too exposed to hot sun, then you will face a different problem, but I won't discuss it here.

On the other extreme if the soil mix that you transplanted the rose is too moist, it becomes heavy and may also affect the fluid flow. It is like putting a water drenched clothes to dry in a bucket of water. Water in the clothes cannot be released because it is held by the water in the bucket. This is the reason why watering heavily under hot hot afternoon sun is a no no thing.

I won't discuss about watering and achieving better soil drainage here. But what I want to point out is that retaining smaller stems when pruning help the rose plant to adapt to new environment better.

If I am unsure and suspect the rose plant is not established yet, then I would do a very light pruning in the beginning, and in the following weeks look for new bud growth. Upon seeing where the growth emerges, I would complete the 1/3 prune and retain the new bud growth.

If you have done all the above, and not seeing the desired result, then try relocating the rose plant where it receives more direct sun. This helps to increase the rate of transpiration and may promote growth.



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