Monday, April 27, 2009

April 09 Bloom

by Richard Chew


Its April bloom!!

Below is my Deep Red Rose. The bloom is much fuller. Thanks to the sun.

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The flower fully opened after a few days. Interestingly it has a soft white strip at the edge of the petal.

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The Fairy rose continues to bloom.

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Miniature Pink blooms again.

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This is the new addition Ivory White

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One of my new additions. I don't know the name. Its bloom is peach or orangy pink.

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After a major prune, my Hot Tamale just started to bloom

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This is a similar version of Seven Sister. It is still a young plant. Hopefully once it is established, it will be more profused.

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This is a new collection. It is a miniature that spreads horizontally.

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This my new addition. Very unique colour. It is a medium size hedge rose.

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Monday, April 20, 2009

Growing Rose - First 90 days - Part 3

by Richard Chew

Purpose of this posting is to share my thoughts to understand the growth condition of young rose plants that you purchase from the nursery.

I learned that rose nurseries employ very innovative methods to accelerate the growth rate of their roses. Basically the bottomline is to make money and make more money. Through these methods they managed to reduce man power in applying fertilizer, reduce fertilizing cost while achieving faster growth rate and bigger and profuse blooms.

They are so good at this that they successfully grow bushier shrub with profuse blooms ready to be sold to customers within shorter growing time. However if you examine the stems, they are still at infant stage, and I also suspect the roots are at infant stage too. I don't mean to insinuate these nurseries, but I feel it is necessary to know this so that we know what needs to be done to achieve higher chances of success in the first 90 days.

This is also the reason why the popular ones, faster moving ones, have lower chances of success when it is sold, because it has to overcome the 'shock' to adapt new growing environment.

To increase your chances of success, I suggest that you choose roses with stronger and healthier stems in your purchase. Sometimes when looking for best bargain, a difference of RM2 or RM10 makes a lot of difference. I would go for the one with the stronger and healthier stems. I don't mind paying for more.

Just for the purpose of illustration, it may not be accurate, the stem thickness difference of 5mm, could equal to 2 months growth period.

If you have already purchased a rose plant, don't judge its growth strength and health level simply by its flower blooms and leaves. And also don't assume that the roots are strong enough. I feel it is always safer to assume worse case.

Now that you know what to look out for good sign of growth and what to expect from your newly purchased young rose plant, next I will share what we can do to increase chances of success.



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read next posting at http://rosegrowing.blogspot.com/2009/05/growing-rose-first-90-days-part-4.html

Friday, April 17, 2009

A PRIMER ON SOIL - ORGANIC AMENDMENTS [EXT]

This is good link that describe each type of organic fertilizer

http://www.rdrop.com/~paul/organics.html


A PRIMER ON SOIL - ORGANIC AMENDMENTS
By Richard Hedenberg, ARS Consulting Rosarian

Organic amendments are any materials that have ever been alive either as plant or animal. Nutrients from organics are not immediately available to the plant. Soil microorganisms are needed to change nutrients through bacterial action into forms the plants can use in solution. Organics give a steady supply of nutrients over a long period of time, however, some, such as fish based products, become available quite quickly in warm moist soil. Organics are primarily a source of nitrogen and trace elements, but many also provide some phosphates and potash. Organics in quantities up to one third of the total soil volume are very beneficial to the soil structure. The organics are converted by the microorganisms and are used by the plant. Therefore, they should be replaced at the rate they are used.

ALFALFA MEAL (3N-lP-2K)

Alfalfa meal or pellets is one of the green manure crops and contains small amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium which feed the plant. However, the biggest benefit of alfalfa is from the work it does in the soil. Alfalfa contains the hormone, Triacontanol, a plant growth regulator. Alfalfa meal can be top dressed and watered in. But quicker benefits are had when alfalfa is brewed into a tea. The primary boost comes from the millions of microbes in the fermented meal that activate the soil organisms that then convert nutrients into forms available to plants. Roses love it. Only apply alfalfa to the surface. If placed in the root zone, the rapid decomposition of alfalfa will generate heat which can damage the roots.

BLOOD MEAL (12-2-1)

Blood meal is a slaughter house by-product and is an excellent source of quickly available organic nitrogen, when used as a top dressing and watered in. Blood meal is completely soluble and can be mixed with water and used as a liquid fertilizer. Meal fertilizers, when not brewed, work best when they are scattered on top of the bed and watered in. Meals blended in the soil can become hot (called curing). All meals are used up fast. Bacterial action works quickly.

BONE MEAL (2-12-2)

Bone is used as a long-lasting source of phosphorous as well as low levels of nitrogen, potassium and calcium. The extremely slow availability of nutrients from bone meal make it a very safe fertilizer, especially when planting of potting very young or new plants.

COMPOST

Compost is the decomposed, cured form of organic matter. Compost, worked into new beds or top dressed and watered into established beds, increases microorganism activity and improves soil character and moisture retention. There is some nutrient value as well. The best source for good compost is making your own.

COTTONSEED MEAL (7 2-2)

Cottonseed meal is a good natural fertilizer with a high percentage of organic nitrogen, perhaps the second best source of organic nitrogen after blood meal. Cottonseed meal is easily obtained at your local feed store. The nitrogen is broken down slowly and is available to the plant over a period of time. Cottonseed meal acidifies the soil.

EARTHWORMS

Worms are nature's own tillers and soil conditioners. Their main benefit is to soil structure where their many tunnels loosen the soil, improving aeration and drainage. Worms don't make the soil healthier, but are an excellent indication of healthy soil. If your pH is way off, earthworms won't stay around. They will leave if they don't like it. Earthworms can be introduced to new beds, but will eventually find their own way to them.

FISH EMULSION (8-12-2)

Fish emulsion is an all-natural organic fish fertilizer with a reputation for eliminating plant doldrums. Many exhibitors refer to it as their secret to growing show winning blooms. When used as a liquid drench, results are quicker than with other organics. It is a low-nitrogen concentrated liquid food containing a wide range of trace elements that will green foliage, grow vigorous roots and big blooms while also enriching the soil. A must for Miniatures. The odor dissipates rapidly.

FISH MEAL (8-12-2)

Fish meal is a great natural fertilizer, high in phosphorous and high in organic nitrogen. Fish meal is quick acting, offering a sustained supply of nutrients. Don't scatter fish meal, because of the strong odor; plug it in a series of holes about ten inches deep that can then be covered with about four inches of soil.

GROUND TREE BARK

Ground bark is sold as a soil conditioner which improves drainage. It has good water holding capacity and eventually breaks down to humus. Tree bark reportedly has a deterrent effect against nematodes. Many rosarians like to use it in an chunk form for mulch. It's use will cause a temporary drop in nitrogen levels in the soil so additional amounts of nitrogen must be added.

MANURES

Manures are a good source of nutrients and organic matter. Aged horse manure can be found in this area and is the preferred one of the manures, excellent as a soil conditioner for any kind of soil or as a mulch. In addition to being an organic source of nitrogen, decomposing manures are chelating agents that function to make trace metals available to plants. Dehydrated cow manure (2-1-2), dried and pulverized comes in fifty pound bags. It has been heat treated to kill weed seeds and is convenient, easy to apply and long-lasting. Manures may be high in salts. About half of the nutrients remaining in manures will be available each year.

MILORGA NITE (6-2-0)

Milorganite is 100% natural organic heat dried activated sewage sludge in a fine granular form. Heat treated for sterilization, it is inoffensive and easy to handle. A high nitrogen source that is also a good source for iron and trace elements that are slow release. Milorganite is easy to top dress with and water into beds and also won't burn roots when used in a soil mix.

SEAWEED PRODUCTS

Kelp meal (1-0-8) is a dry fertilizer made iron seaweed and is very high in potassiumand trace elements. An excellent source of plant hormones that stimulate plant and root growth. Liquid seaweed (4-2-3) has the same characteristics as kelp meal and is a quick boost for greening foliage. When mixed with fish emulsion, it can't be beat.

SPHAGNUM PEAT MOSS

Peat moss is an excellent, long lasting, slow decaying organic material whose greatest value is as a soil amendment promoting moisture retention and improving soil structure. Peat moss can hold water and nutrients ten to fifteen times its own weight when fully saturated and can still hold 40% air. It has little nutrient value itself but is excellent at holding nutrients to prevent them from leaching iron the soil. It will then release them to the plant. Do not apply to the surface. Sphagnum peat moss will repel water when dry. However, once wet and mixed with the soil, it will readily take up moisture. It increases soil acidity, so lime should be added to the sphagnum peat moss at the time of application. Its good traits last about five years before it is decomposed, which explains the logic of not planting a new rose in an old rose hole.

This article originally appeared on ARS's home page. Credit: the ARS and Richard Hedenberg.


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Saturday, April 11, 2009

Growing Rose - First 90 days - Part 2

by Richard Chew

To know whether your roses are growing well, we need to watch out for certain signs that the exhibits strong growth.

I have taken some pictures to give you some idea.

The following dark leaves shoots, indicate strongest and most healthy growth.

Dark leaves absorb most light, just like a solar panel in black because black absorb the most light. If your rose produces dark leave (almost black) at early stage, it will most likely give out strong stem growth.

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The following is a less sun tolerant rose. It is placed at shaded location. Strong growth is not necessary influenced by the strength of direct sun. As long as there is sufficient light, it should do the job.

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After about 1 to 2 weeks, the leaves will gradually turn to green. This will be sign of slower stem growth and gradually the flower bud will form.

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The following are signs of weaker growth than the ones above. Though the growth is weaker, it is healthy. After flowering, it should be pruned immediately.

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All of the pictures taken below are signs of weak growth. Though they may produce some shoots, it doesn't have that 'push' compare to those above, the leaves are much lighter green. Other signs of weaker growth are the formation of distorted leaves.


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In the first 90 days, we need to watch out for strong growths. I realised that if the newly purchased rose plant do not produce some of these strong growths, then there is high chances that it will not grow successfully at your garden.



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read next posting at http://rosegrowing.blogspot.com/2009/04/growing-rose-first-90-days-part-3.html

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

Growing Rose - First 90 days

by Richard Chew

I believe many would get excited when adding a new rose plant to their garden collection. Whether it is a shrub, miniature or a climbing rose, it is always wonderful to have colorful and striking show piece in our garden.

However how it is being cared for in the first 90 days are important.

I thought it would be a good idea to write a little on this topic, and then gradually add on as I gain more experiences.

To be honest, till now, not all of my new and young rose plants that I purchased survived in the first 90 days. After growing roses for 3 years (started in 2006), I have only a handful that made it through a year. And out of this handful, less than half made it through the 2nd year.

I started this blog in Sept 08, and what I have posted is based on effort, work and research of many trial and error experiments done since 2006. It is only in Sept 2008 that I felt better equipped to share some experiences, it was then that I launched this blog.


Why am I sharing my success rate in this posting? Because this is the very first lesson that I wish to impart before I go on with this topic. The first lesson is ....


Lesson #1 - Keep a positive attitude


Don't give up!! Don't stop!! Keep going!!


It is important to begin a journey with an end in mind. Don't bother to join a race, if you have no intention to finish it. But if you do join in, don't stop. Keep going. Perhaps it may be a longer journey for some. However it is not the distance that matters, it is keeping a positive attitude.

I hope to start this series with a positive note, and get you started with a right frame of mind without putting unrealistic expectations. If you have failed attempts in growing roses and have decided not to try again for some reasons, I wish to encourage you to reconsider your decision.

Give yourself the first 90 days, you may never know what may turn out to be.

Please stay tune for more posting of this series.




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read next posting at .... http://rosegrowing.blogspot.com/2009/04/growing-rose-first-90-days-part-2.html