Monday, August 31, 2009
How To Determine Ammonium/Nitrate Ratio [EXT]
How To Determine Ammonium/Nitrate Ratio
Nitrogen is the building block of amino acids, proteins and chlorophyll. Plants can absorb nitrogen either as Nitrate (NO3-) or Ammonium (NH4+), and therefore, the total uptake of nitrogen usually consists of a combination of these two forms.
The ratio between Ammonium and Nitrate is of a great significance, and affects both plants and soil/medium.
For optimal uptake and growth, each plant species requires a different ammonium/nitrate ratio. The correct ratio to be applied also varies with temperature, growth stage, pH in the root zone and soil properties.
Monday, May 4, 2009
All the way with NPK [EXT]
http://www.sgaonline.org.au/info_npk.html
All the way with NPK
Plant Nutrients Explained
Plant nutrients - we know plants need them, we know things go wrong without them, we know gardening gurus can't stop talking about them, and we know certain combinations of them can cost us a mint at the garden centre. But what do they do, and what on earth are we paying for? Here be an awesome list of plant nutrients, and why they are so important.
The Primary Macronutrients
According to all plants surveyed, these three macronutrients are the most popular nutritional elements required by plants, as they are all needed in the largest volumes for healthy plant growth. Our top three are:
Nitrogen (N)
Nitrogen is a vitally important element in the plant amino acids (the building blocks of proteins), nitrogen is also a necessary part of the green bits in the leaves of plants (chlorophyll) and super dooper for leaf growth.
Plants may be nitrogen deficient if: older leaves are pale green to yellow often with a tinge of red, plants are stunted, leaf drop can occur.
Plants may have too much nitrogen if: shoots wilt; dead spots appear on the leaves of young plants; masses of soft deep green leaves that are prone to pest and disease appear.
Phosphorus (P)
Phosphorus is involved in just about everything that goes on in plants. It is especially important where cells are actively dividing (growing), and it promotes the growth of seedlings, roots, flowering, and fruit and seed formation.
Plants may be phosphorus deficient if: they have poorly developed roots, plants are a bit stunted, and, most obviously, leaves have a purple tinge to them.
Plants may have too much phosphorus if: older leaves display necrosis (browning and death) of tips and margins followed by dropping off of the affected leaves. Chlorosis (yellowing) of younger foliage often occurs and the plant dies in severe cases. Phosphorus toxicity is rare in many species but there a small number of species that are most prone to the problem. Of these species the majority are Australian natives from the Proteaceae family.
Potassium (K)
Potassium is extremely important in helping plants resist disease, producing chlorophyll, making plant cells stronger and moving water through plants.
Plants may be potassium deficient if: they have weak stems, older leaves are floppy and have brown scorched edges and can be bluish green, and may be overly sensitive to frost. If you live in an area with really sandy soils and a fair bit of rainfall, you may just come across this deficiency.

Plants may have too little potassium if: they display similar symptoms to phosphorus deficiency, but with the added bonus of poor root development and wilting of new growth.
The Secondary Macronutrients
Like their three big brothers the primary macronutrients, secondary macronutrients are also essential for healthy plant growth, but are needed in smaller quantities for success. These three champions are:
Calcium (Ca)
Just as we need calcium for strong bones, plants need calcium for tough cells walls... very important in keeping plants looking like plants! Helps growing areas of plants, like root tips, function as they should.
Plants may have a calcium deficiency if: you have highly acid soils and notice weak plant stems, and see stunting or deadspots on the newest leaves. Plant roots will often be stunted, brown and dead. Leaves of grasses and grass-like plants may fail to form properly, and appear rolled. Calcium is often present in soils in correct quantities, but, due to other factors (pH, other nutrient deficiencies); plants are not able to "access" and use this micronutrient.
Plants may have too much calcium if: they display signs of magnesium and boron deficiency. Rarely do plants have too much calcium, but, in highly acid soils, excessive calcium take up can make magnesium and boron unavailable to the plant.
Magnesium (Mg)
Darned important in photosynthesis, as magnesium makes up part of the chlorophyll molecule (the green pigment in plants). Australian soils generally have perfect levels of magnesium, unless they have been treated for a long long time with chook poo. The high potassium levels in poo can make magnesium unavailable to plants.
Plants may be magnesium deficient if: older leaves of the plant turn yellow while the veins remain green (this cool looking symptom is commonly referred to as "intervienal chlorosis" and is generally caused by an iron deficiency). Some plants, especially grasses, may have the edges of the leaves turned upwards, and, if the deficiency is severe, they may turn a reddish-brown colour.
Plants may have too much magnesium if: well, it's unlikely this would happen, but a magnesium toxicity would present first as a potassium deficiency.
Sulphur (S)
Sulphur is responsible for many of the flavours and odours of plants - think cabbage, Brussels sprouts and asparagus. Sulphur is also incredibly important in the production of chlorophyll and many plant proteins.
Plants may be deficient in sulphur if: newer leaves turn yellow, and new shoots are stunted. If left for ages, these symptoms will appear very similar to those of nitrogen deficiency, the difference being whether the yellowing appeared first in the new leaves (sulphur) or the older leaves (nitrogen).
Plants may have too much sulphur if: Leaf size will be reduced and overall growth will be stunted, newer leaves yellowing or scorched at edges. Older leaves may drop prematurely.
Trace Elements (Micronutrients)
Plants may not need too much of these guys, but they are required in micro amounts for healthy, happy plants. Generally speaking, soils with a high pH (alkaline soils) can cause these all important micronutrients to become unavailable, which means they are there in sufficient amounts in the soil, but the plants can't grab them.
Iron (Fe)
Iron is an integral part of a number of plant compounds, specifically those that promote and monitor growth. Iron is also an important element in the chloroplasts (you know, the green bits!).
Plants may be iron deficient if: young leaves of the plant turn yellow while the veins remain really green (this is commonly referred to as "intervienal chlorosis") where severe deficiencies will turn almost white.
Plants may have too much iron if: well, it's pretty unusual, but can occur in potting mixes feed with additional iron chelates. Symptoms will appear as bronzed leaves with small, mottled brown spots, and is generally only seen on highly acidic soils or those soils lacking in silicon and somewhat water logged (rice fields often have iron toxicity issues).
Manganese (Mn)
A bit like iron, manganese is Important in the formation of plant proteins. Plants may be manganese deficient if: leaves towards the middle of the plant turn yellow while the leaves fade to a light green. Water soaked spots may appear across the leaves. Plants may have too much manganese if: the edges of the middle and older leaves display brown spots with yellow rings. Crinkling and "cupping" of leaves can occur in sever situations.
Boron (B)
Boron is heavily involved in the formation of cells, and is super important to the growing tissues of young shoots, roots, flowers and fruit.
Plants may be boron deficient if: youngest leaves have yellow edges, growing tips blacken and die, leaves are crumpled and distorted. In some fruits and vegetables, boron deficiency can lead to a condition known as "brown heart" - a breakdown and corkiness of internal tissue.
Plants may have too much boron if: Edges of the oldest leaves appear yellow, and then change to brown and black. This may look very similar to severe sun scorch.
Molybdenum (MO)
Molybdenum converts nitrogen gas present in the atmosphere into usable plant protein (very handy if you are a nitrogen fixing plant). Molybdenum is also involved in the formation of proteins from nitrogen compounds, a complex way of saying it helps the nitrogen move from the soil and become usable for the plant.
Plants may be molybdenum deficient if: the oldest leaves are mottled across the whole surface, stems can become distorted, and leaves may start to turn and become cupped. In cabbages, cauliflowers, broccoli and other members of the Brassiacea family, molybdenum deficiency can result in a disorder known as whiptail, where the main presentation will be narrow, distorted leaves. This is most likely to occur on highly acid soils.
Plants may have too much molybdenum if: well, it's unlikely that this will ever happen. Plants are able to absorb molybdenum at far greater volumes than they actually require, without the plant displaying any toxicity symptoms. Critters that eat plants with extremely high levels of molybdenum may not be so lucky however, as high doses of molybdenum can result in copper deficiencies.
Copper
Used in the production of plant enzymes, and is an important factor in carbohydrate and protein metabolism. Plants may be copper deficient if: the youngest leaves have dead areas on their growing tips, begin to yellow, and are distorted. There is normally a huge decrease in flowering.
Plants may have too much copper if: growth is somewhat stunted. Copper toxicity displays symptoms similar to iron deficiency.
Zinc
Zinc is needed for the production of auxin, a plant hormone involved in the growth and development of the plant, especially roots and tips.
Plants may be zinc deficient if: the leaves of the plant are unusually small, young leaves bunch together and youngest leaves display yellow to white coloured mottling.
Plants may have too much zinc if: Zinc toxicity displays symptoms similar to iron deficiency.
As with all things, nutrient issues are not always as they appear, and extreme care should be exercised when attempting to diagnose a nutrient deficiency. Many nutrient deficiencies display similar symptoms to those of environmental problems. For example, citrus in cool regions often turn yellow, but this does NOT indicate a nutrient deficiency. The new leaves produced when the weather warms should be a lush and healthy green. To complicate matters further, plant symptoms may also be indicative of herbicide damage where a non target plant takes up damaging chemicals intended for, say, weed control.
If a nutrient deficiency is suspected, the most important factor to determine is the pH of the soil or growing media. As soils become more acid or alkaline, available nutrients become locked and the addition of increased nutrients will not assist the situation. Don't just feed your plants and hope to correct the issue... find out what the problem is first. You may kill them with kindness otherwise!
Friday, April 17, 2009
A PRIMER ON SOIL - ORGANIC AMENDMENTS [EXT]
http://www.rdrop.com/~paul/organics.html
A PRIMER ON SOIL - ORGANIC AMENDMENTS
By Richard Hedenberg, ARS Consulting Rosarian
Organic amendments are any materials that have ever been alive either as plant or animal. Nutrients from organics are not immediately available to the plant. Soil microorganisms are needed to change nutrients through bacterial action into forms the plants can use in solution. Organics give a steady supply of nutrients over a long period of time, however, some, such as fish based products, become available quite quickly in warm moist soil. Organics are primarily a source of nitrogen and trace elements, but many also provide some phosphates and potash. Organics in quantities up to one third of the total soil volume are very beneficial to the soil structure. The organics are converted by the microorganisms and are used by the plant. Therefore, they should be replaced at the rate they are used.
ALFALFA MEAL (3N-lP-2K)
Alfalfa meal or pellets is one of the green manure crops and contains small amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium which feed the plant. However, the biggest benefit of alfalfa is from the work it does in the soil. Alfalfa contains the hormone, Triacontanol, a plant growth regulator. Alfalfa meal can be top dressed and watered in. But quicker benefits are had when alfalfa is brewed into a tea. The primary boost comes from the millions of microbes in the fermented meal that activate the soil organisms that then convert nutrients into forms available to plants. Roses love it. Only apply alfalfa to the surface. If placed in the root zone, the rapid decomposition of alfalfa will generate heat which can damage the roots.
BLOOD MEAL (12-2-1)
Blood meal is a slaughter house by-product and is an excellent source of quickly available organic nitrogen, when used as a top dressing and watered in. Blood meal is completely soluble and can be mixed with water and used as a liquid fertilizer. Meal fertilizers, when not brewed, work best when they are scattered on top of the bed and watered in. Meals blended in the soil can become hot (called curing). All meals are used up fast. Bacterial action works quickly.
BONE MEAL (2-12-2)
Bone is used as a long-lasting source of phosphorous as well as low levels of nitrogen, potassium and calcium. The extremely slow availability of nutrients from bone meal make it a very safe fertilizer, especially when planting of potting very young or new plants.
COMPOST
Compost is the decomposed, cured form of organic matter. Compost, worked into new beds or top dressed and watered into established beds, increases microorganism activity and improves soil character and moisture retention. There is some nutrient value as well. The best source for good compost is making your own.
COTTONSEED MEAL (7 2-2)
Cottonseed meal is a good natural fertilizer with a high percentage of organic nitrogen, perhaps the second best source of organic nitrogen after blood meal. Cottonseed meal is easily obtained at your local feed store. The nitrogen is broken down slowly and is available to the plant over a period of time. Cottonseed meal acidifies the soil.
EARTHWORMS
Worms are nature's own tillers and soil conditioners. Their main benefit is to soil structure where their many tunnels loosen the soil, improving aeration and drainage. Worms don't make the soil healthier, but are an excellent indication of healthy soil. If your pH is way off, earthworms won't stay around. They will leave if they don't like it. Earthworms can be introduced to new beds, but will eventually find their own way to them.
FISH EMULSION (8-12-2)
Fish emulsion is an all-natural organic fish fertilizer with a reputation for eliminating plant doldrums. Many exhibitors refer to it as their secret to growing show winning blooms. When used as a liquid drench, results are quicker than with other organics. It is a low-nitrogen concentrated liquid food containing a wide range of trace elements that will green foliage, grow vigorous roots and big blooms while also enriching the soil. A must for Miniatures. The odor dissipates rapidly.
FISH MEAL (8-12-2)
Fish meal is a great natural fertilizer, high in phosphorous and high in organic nitrogen. Fish meal is quick acting, offering a sustained supply of nutrients. Don't scatter fish meal, because of the strong odor; plug it in a series of holes about ten inches deep that can then be covered with about four inches of soil.
GROUND TREE BARK
Ground bark is sold as a soil conditioner which improves drainage. It has good water holding capacity and eventually breaks down to humus. Tree bark reportedly has a deterrent effect against nematodes. Many rosarians like to use it in an chunk form for mulch. It's use will cause a temporary drop in nitrogen levels in the soil so additional amounts of nitrogen must be added.
MANURES
Manures are a good source of nutrients and organic matter. Aged horse manure can be found in this area and is the preferred one of the manures, excellent as a soil conditioner for any kind of soil or as a mulch. In addition to being an organic source of nitrogen, decomposing manures are chelating agents that function to make trace metals available to plants. Dehydrated cow manure (2-1-2), dried and pulverized comes in fifty pound bags. It has been heat treated to kill weed seeds and is convenient, easy to apply and long-lasting. Manures may be high in salts. About half of the nutrients remaining in manures will be available each year.
MILORGA NITE (6-2-0)
Milorganite is 100% natural organic heat dried activated sewage sludge in a fine granular form. Heat treated for sterilization, it is inoffensive and easy to handle. A high nitrogen source that is also a good source for iron and trace elements that are slow release. Milorganite is easy to top dress with and water into beds and also won't burn roots when used in a soil mix.
SEAWEED PRODUCTS
Kelp meal (1-0-8) is a dry fertilizer made iron seaweed and is very high in potassiumand trace elements. An excellent source of plant hormones that stimulate plant and root growth. Liquid seaweed (4-2-3) has the same characteristics as kelp meal and is a quick boost for greening foliage. When mixed with fish emulsion, it can't be beat.
SPHAGNUM PEAT MOSS
Peat moss is an excellent, long lasting, slow decaying organic material whose greatest value is as a soil amendment promoting moisture retention and improving soil structure. Peat moss can hold water and nutrients ten to fifteen times its own weight when fully saturated and can still hold 40% air. It has little nutrient value itself but is excellent at holding nutrients to prevent them from leaching iron the soil. It will then release them to the plant. Do not apply to the surface. Sphagnum peat moss will repel water when dry. However, once wet and mixed with the soil, it will readily take up moisture. It increases soil acidity, so lime should be added to the sphagnum peat moss at the time of application. Its good traits last about five years before it is decomposed, which explains the logic of not planting a new rose in an old rose hole.
This article originally appeared on ARS's home page. Credit: the ARS and Richard Hedenberg.
***
Thursday, February 5, 2009
The Plant Doctor - Plant Disease and Fertilization [EXT]
Found this resource from this link http://msucares.com/pubs/infosheets/is1668.pdf
By Dr. Alan Henn
Plants must have a proper growing medium for healthy growth. Most often the growing medium is soil. To support healthy plant growth, soil must have the moisture, structure, pH, mix of organic matter, and available nutrients to meet the plant’s needs. A fertile soil is a well-blended mix of these. When any of these components is damaged or falls out of correct proportion, plant growth is affected. Most common problems result from imbalances in nutritional elements or improper pH.
Susceptibility and incidence to grey mold and myrothecium incidence increase with increasing nitrogen in some greenhouse plants. On the other hand, Rust on perennial ryegrass is lower when plants are grown under high nitrogen fertilization. It is not just the amount of nitrogen that is important; its form is also important, either nitrate or ammonium. One disease (foliar, wilts, or root rots) may be made worse by ammonium nitrogen, but another may be made worse by nitrate nitrogen.
Nitrogen levels should be balanced with potassium, since disease susceptibility generally increases with higher nitrogen-to-potassium ratios. Some diseases that are made worse by too much nitrogen may at least be partially reduced by increasing potassium. This is true in grey mold in tomato and in some bacterial stem rot. Likewise, Melting out, Leaf spot, Pythium blight, and Sclerotina dollar spot are greater under high nitrogen fertility. This effect can be offset for all but Sclerotina dollar spot by increasing phosphorus and potassium levels, bringing the fertility level more in balance.
nutrient deficiencies in Mississippi
Nitrogen: Leaves are light green and lower leaves turn
yellow or light brown. Stems may be thin and shortened.
Phosphorus: Leaves have a purple tint or are bluish green.
Lower leaves may turn light brown. Stems may be thin
and shortened.
Potassium: Thin stems, which may die-back in severe
shortages. Older leaves may yellow, and the margins and
tips may brown.
Calcium: New leaves are distorted with curled margins.
They may have brown spotting.
Iron: Young leaves are yellow between the veins, but the
veins remain dark green. Sometimes brown spots appear.
By Dr. Alan Henn, Associate Extension Professor, Entomology and Plant Pathology
Discrimination based upon race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age, disability, or veteran’s status is a violation of federal and state law and MSU policy and will not be tolerated. Discrimination based upon sexual orientation or group affiliation is a violation of MSU policy and will not be tolerated.
Information Sheet 1668
Extension Service of Mississippi State University, cooperating with U.S. Department of Agriculture. Published in furtherance of Acts of Congress, May 8 and June 30, 1914. VANCE H. WATSON, Director (POD rev-10-07)
Friday, December 12, 2008
Wood Ashes as Fertilizer [EXT]
This was extracted from Ventura County
http://ceventura.ucdavis.edu/ben/pubs/nutrition/ashes.htm
Wood Ashes as Fertilizer
There has been considerable talk lately of recycling yard prunings and clippings as mulches and composts. Another source of recyclable materials is the ash from the fireplace or barbecue. At one time wood ashes were a chief source of potassium and much used in farming and horticulture. While not an important fertilizer anymore, gardeners with a supply of ashes often want to know if they would be useful as a fertilizer or soil amendment.
The answer is yes, if used appropriately. The benefits derived from ashes depend on your soil and the rate at which the ashes are applied. Generally, ashes contain potassium, a major plant nutrient plus a number of minor nutrients. Wood ashes contain all the mineral elements that were in the wood, except for nitrogen and sulfur which are lost through the burning process. Potassium, calcium and magnesium carbonate or oxide are present in comparatively large amounts giving the ashes a strongly alkaline reaction which can neutralize acid soils. However in soils that are already alkaline, high application rates can be harmful. A further compounding problem is that about 80 to 90 percent of the minerals in wood ashes are water-soluble, so that high application rates can cause salts to build up in soils, resulting in plant injury.
As a plant food, ashes contain 5 to 7 percent potassium and 11/2 to 2 percent phosphorous. They also have 25 to 50 percent calcium compounds. Hardwood (e.g. oak) ashes contain more potassium than those from softwoods (e.g. pine). If left out in the rain, because these nutrients are water-soluble, the ashes will lose their nutritive value. The less soluble carbonates which cause alkalinity will remain longer.
So how to use ashes? An average application is 5 to 10 pounds per 100 square feet, scattered on a freshly tilled soil and raked in. For a pre-plant treatment, it is best to apply ashes 3 or 4 weeks in advance of planting. They also can be sidedressed around growing plants or used as a mulch. A ring of ashes around a plant may ward off snails and slugs because the ashes are irritating to them.
In order to avoid problems of excess salinity or alkalinity, the applications should be limited to once per year. Avoid contact between freshly spread ashes and germinating seeds or new plant roots by spreading ashes a few inches away from plants. Ashes that settle on foliage can cause burning. Prevent this by thoroughly rinsing plants after applying ashes. Because they are alkaline, avoid using ashes around azaleas, camellias and other acid-loving plants.
Remember that ashes contain very little nitrogen, so your plant's need for this element must be met by other sources in a regular fertilizer schedule.
Saturday, November 22, 2008
Feeding the Soil - Part 4
by Richard Chew
After my previous improvements as posted in Feeding the Soil - Part 3, there is marked improvement, but I was still not very satisfied with the rate of decomposition.
Upon learning that peat moss helps decrease pH of soil and also increase rate of decomposition of organic matter, I decided to add peat moss as top soil. Peat moss has carbon nitrogen ratio of 50:1. And it has higher population of actinomycete bacteria that is responsible to decompose organic matter. This decomposition process is also known as mineralization of organic matter that converts organic matter into non-organic ammonia mineral. Subsequently ammonia is used by other bacterias for their metabolic activities, also known as nitrogen fixing. During the metabolic activities, these bacteria will respire nitrogen into a form that can be taken in by plant roots as nutrients.
The peat moss also aids in decomposing dry fertilizer (pellets form - chicken and sheep manure), including those that are highly processed which are harder to decompose. Mixing dry fertilizer with the peat moss, will help to break down the fertilizer more easily thus faster release of needed nutrients into the soil. Without peat moss (or any substance that aids decomposition), the bacteria may draw nitrogen from the soil to break down the fertilizer. This is the reason why the dosage of fertilizer must correspond with the size and health of the plant. Otherwise both the fertilizer and the plant roots would be competing for the same source of nitrogen. To build on that, if the plant roots are not healthy, the same bacteria that decompose the organic matter may choose to 'attack' the roots instead because the unhealthy roots become easier to break down.
However peat moss need to be mixed with other low carbon nitrogen ratio matter to create a better soil metabolic effect. Peat moss by itself, tends to retain too much moisture and may invite more fungal decomposition. Its surface tends to be grayish (sign of fungal). Of course retaining moisture has it benefits, but if too much may tightened the top soil that impedes aeration especially after heavy rain fall. Too high moisture content will lead to anaerobic fermentation, because the soil structure lacks access to O2 thus will increase the soil pH (alkaline soil). This probably explains the cause of chlorosis at my Nozomi rose which is sign of suffering from the inability to absorb iron. More about my experience in countering chlorosis in my next posting.
Having mentioned the above I need to clarify that the grayish texture at the peat moss surface is not a bad sign. It actually confirms the presence of actinomycete, a kind of fungal bacteria (because it is fillimous, and has spores) for decomposing organic matter. If its high with actinomycete, don't be surprise a mushroom may suddenly spring up from the soil in the early morning.
To prevent or to minimise anaerobic fermentation (that will increase soil pH), we need to add material that provide good top soil structure for better aeration to aid aerobic decomposition. And it should contain low carbon so that metabolic activities can be raised without depleting nitrogen at the top soil.
I used grass cuttings. It is inexpensive. It cost about RM2.60 per pack. It has the right carbon nitrogen ratio (20:1), that utilises nitrogen from its own source when decomposing. And its structure goes well with peat moss to improve top soil aeration. I would mix about 50% (of volume, not weight) with the peat moss. I noticed a dramatic difference in the soil structure after mixing it with grass cuttings.

The top soil becomes less tight, much softer and more fluffier (better aeration). I noticed it becomes brownier (and less grayish) when I turn over the top soil on the following day This is good sign of good compost soil.

I have just pruned my Portmeirion rose. I did the top soil as mentioned above. Hopefully by Dec I will get good display of flower. The rose is responding well with some buds at the main stem. Hope to get about 10 strong shoots for flowering.
Saturday, November 15, 2008
Fertilizer - Feeding the Soil - Part 3

The most noticeable 'side effects' was the yellowing black spots leaves. It only happened on the roses that I applied with the pre-mixed fertilizer that contains large amount of saw dust.
After applying for a week, I noticed the top soil was quite tight as I tried to loosen it. It was later that I learned that the saw dust has very high carbon content (about 400:1 ratio). And that probably explains the depletion of nitrogen in the early stage of decomposition.
I had to quickly, replace the top soil by mixing with compost soil that has ratio of 10:1. It helps to decompose faster and at same time provide higher nitrogen to bring down the total carbon nitrogen ratio. The following week, I noticed the number of yellow black spots leaves remain the same (no increased). So far it is working well.
In the same period of mixed, I water the roses with Miracid regularly. I don't expect a dramatic turn of results, but would expect greener foliage in 2 weeks time.

As for my Nozomi rose, I noticed it has greener shoots since I started aggressive watering with Miracid. It was quite badly infected with chlorosis. The leaves turned to very light green, almost yellow. Fortunately it has improved with this recent new shoot.

The diagrams below illustrates the Ion exchange responsible for cation & anion exchange in soil solution. Rhizo bacteria assist in the absorption of essentials minerals into the roots system. This goes to show, how important microbes are in assisting plant growth.
Calcium and Magnesium uptake
Phosphorus, Zinc & Copper uptake
Just as I am writing this post, I faced with a challenge to recover one of my rose that got injured during transplanting. To make matter worse, the rose was infected with initial chlorosis. The older leaves had lighter green tone.
And to add on the disaster, the soil that I replaced with were not fully compost. After transplanting, the following day the rose was droopy. My initial thought was that I didn't water enough. It was the following day, my worst fear confirmed. It was still as droopy.
I realised the problem is more severe. There was high chance that I may had injured the roots. At this time I noticed dieback at one of the main stem.
I immediately engaged into aggressive recovery. Cut out affected stems. Replaced the soil. Applied compost soil, rotted manure and vermicompost. Regular water with Miracid and fork the soil to create better aeration.
Chances are pretty slim that it can fully recover. But it is worth a try. Hopefully this would be sufficient to turn it around.
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
Mycorrhiza [EXT]
It has good explanations on the role of fungal in roots.
by Lon Rombough
Mycorrhizal Fungii
In farming lore of times past it was a practice of French (and other) farmers to "bless" a new field by sprinkling it with earth from an older field known to be productive. Modern research has now shown that such a ceremony may have more than spiritual value.
It has been found that many species of fungi, beyond just breaking down and feeding on dead plants and animals, associate themselves with the roots of living plants, establishing a symbiotic relationship. These mycorrhizal fungi produce fungal threads that coat the plant roots, even penetrating the cells in many cases, getting nutrients from the plant while providing benefits for it's host at the same time. Indeed, a large number of plants require this "invasion" for good health, and many others are much better off with than without the fungi. Orchids and pines, for example, can't even grow normally without the presence of the right species of fungi on their roots. Another plant requiring fungi on it's roots is the temperate fruit,the pawpaw (Asimina triloba).
Foresters have been aware that plants need fungi for some years. In the Pacific Northwest, the seedlings in Douglas fir nurseries did better when the soil they were growing in was given an inoculation of soil from an old stand of the same species. Inoculating the soil of the nursery with fungi from old trees helped the young trees get off to a much better start.
Home growers and farmers knew composting helped plants, but probably thought it was simply the nutrients, when it fact the compost also helped by introducing more fungi into the soil, and providing improved conditions for them to grow, so that they might form associations with the plant roots. Since then, the study of fungi and how they associate with the roots of plants has moved into many new areas.
There are four classifications of mycorrhizal fungi, based largely on how they associate with the plant roots.
The first are the "ectomycorrhizal fungi". "Ecto" is a prefix meaning"outside,", so ectomycorrizahal fungi are ones that wrap themselves around the outside of the roots, without actually penetrating the cells, though they may insert themselves between the cells, even if they don't actually penetrate the cell walls. Because they tend to form a sheath around the roots of the plant, these mycorrhizas can actually be seen with the naked eye, or under a lens. They tend to suppress the formation of root hairs, but stimulate the growth of many more short roots than normal, so the plant has much more root growth overall. Root tips can be seen to be covered with a white layer, and fungal threads, or strands, are visible on and around the root.
Second are the "endomycorrhizal fungi." "Endo" = "into," thus endomycorrhizal fungi actually invade the cells, sending their hyphae, or fungal threads, into the cells of the roots themselves. They are not always obviously visible to the naked eye, though their effects may be seen in many ways, however, as we'll see farther on. They are also known as Vesicular Arbuscular Mycorrhizal (or VAM) fungi.
The third group are an "in between" group, the "ectendomycorrhizal"types, which has characteristics of the other two groups. Some researchers now put these types into one or the other of the first two classifications.
The fourth group, mentioned only in passing because of it's oddity, is something of a maverick, the "ericoid" mycorrhizas. One plant family, the Ericaceae, which contains blueberries, cranberries, rhododendrons, heather and heath, manzanitas, and a few others, only form mycorrhizal associations with a certain few fungi that haven't been found to associate with other plants.
Many species of fungi form mycorrhizal relationships with plants, including a lot of the common forest mushrooms in the Basidiomycetes, and the Ascomycetes. A classic example of a mycorrhizal fungi is the exalted truffle, which has to associate with the roots of oak and hazelnut trees to produce it's gourmet delicacy. Many of the species most people think of as"toadstools" are mycorrhizal types, so having mushrooms pop up in your yard might actually be a sign of healthy plants.
What exactly do mycorrhizal fungi do for the plants they associate with?
Increase the number of roots. As noted with the ectomycorrhizas, many of the mycorrhizal fungi stimulate root growth in plants. Dr.Robert Linderman of Oregon State University is a leader in mycorrhizal fungi research, and some of his work shows that the right strain of fungi can actually double the number of roots in potted nursery stock, making the plants more resistant to dryness, and allowing them to establish themselves faster in their new location when they are planted out. This applies to both annual and perennial plants.
Further, the fungi allow plants to take up phosphorus and other nutrients more efficiently. Indeed, Dr.Linderman's work showed that plants in phosphorus-poor soil with mycorrhizal fungi did better than fungi-less plants with adequate phosphorus.
Protect plants from disease. All the exact mechanisms aren't established, but plants with mycorrhizal fungi are less susceptible to diseases, both of the roots and the rest of the plant. Some of the effects must be due to improved nutrition of the plant, while others may be related to substances given off by the fungi, natural antibiotics which keep disease organisms at bay. The physical presence of the fungi may form a natural barrier to disease, as well.
Improve the soil. Dr.Linderman's work describes how many of the mycorrhizal fungi actually penetrate the cells of the roots, creating a sort of "leakage" or exuding of substances from the roots. These substances had various effects on the soil, one of the most important of which was causing soil particles to clump together into aggregates. This clumping effect opened up the soil structure to allow better movement of water and oxygen into the soil.
One particularly interesting aspect was Dr.Linderman's revelation that fungal threads or hyphae from one plant could actually reach out into the soil and connect with threads of other fungal species on other plants. In effect, this meant that as the network of hyphae becomes well established,all the plants in an area would be tied together into one giant community,presumably able to exchange substances and nutrition with each other. This could be at least one aspect of why mixed plant communities often seem to function better than stands of single species. With all plants tied together, different species might exchange with each other, balancing nutrition and moisture amongst the community.
While mycorrhizal fungi were first studied in trees, research now encompasses all types of plants, both annual and perennial. Many strains of mycorrhizal fungi have been isolated, many of which are adapted to specific plant species. More importantly for the consumer, much work is being done by commercial companies, who are culturing mycorrhizal fungi and making them available to growers. This eliminates the variable results of using compost, which didn't always contain the best strains for the plants it was used on. However there are also species of fungi that work with many species of plants.
Different companies have taken different approaches in working with mycorrhizal fungi. Buckman Laboratories sells the species Glomus intraradix as a treatment for turf and nursery plants. Plant Health Care, Inc. uses a second approach by selling mixtures of three Glomus species and a species from the Entrephospora family. They feel that such a mix insures that at least some of these VAM fungi will adapt to a wide range of soil conditions and pH. Bio-Organics is testing strains of many fungi specific for different species of plants, but also have mixes of strains and general purpose types for use on crops for which no specific types have been identified. Thus far, it appears that VAM types are the most useful commercially, with about 90% of the types in use being VAM.
Mycorrhizal fungi don't just affect the plant roots, either. The health of the entire plant is boosted when the right fungi associate with it. Don Chapman at Bio-Organics, one of the companies studying Mycorrhizal fungi, reported results at one grower's grounds in which all pots of test plants with mycorrhizae, accompanied with trace minerals and organic fertilizer, had little or no damage from insects. Plants treated with conventional chemical fertilizers, and lacking mycorrhizal fungi, had considerable insect damage to the leaves. One theory says that insects lack amino acids to digest plant matter and that only sick plants develop high levels of certain amino acids, which stimulates the insects to feed on them. If a leaf is healthy, it will lack the amino acids that stimulate insect feeding behavior and they leave after taking only a taste. Apparently even though the plants without fungi had all the correct nutrients supplied to them chemically, they weren't able to make good use of them without the presence of fungi on their roots.
One of Mr. Chapman's customers, a Master Gardener, reported the yield of his tomatoes doubled with fungi, while ripening time was as much as a week earlier. He also said the tomatoes tasted much better. Similar results have been reported with other crops elsewhere. One grower reported an increase of 6,000 pounds per acre on his sweet potatoes using mycorrhizal fungi.
In my own garden, I applied mycorrhizal fungi and minerals to part of a potato patch, and minerals without fungi to the rest of the patch. All the area with fungi came up faster, bloomed sooner, and there were fewer blanks in the rows. At this writing, the crop has yet to be harvested, so the overall yield isn't known, but the difference in the performance of the plants was striking enough that I'll be very surprised if there isn't some difference in yield.
In the case of perennial plants, one application of the fungi should probably treat the plant for life. With annuals, it's advisable to reapply it every year, to be sure there is enough in the soil to properly inoculate the plants.
The naturally known species of fungi occur in many different soil types and pH ranges, making it highly probable that the commercially available types should also work well in many conditions.
Dr. Linderman also mentioned that some mycorrhizal fungi are even effective in hydroponic situations.
The commercial products can be either liquid or powder, for various means of application, from soil drench to root dips. Bio-Organics has formulations that combine minerals, organic (usually fish) fertilizer and fungi all in one to give the plant an extra boost. The other companies deal mainly with commercial growers, but Dr. Mike Kern at Plant Health Labs says their flower bed drench should work well for home growers as well.
Not only growers, but the environment itself can benefit from using mycorrhizal fungi. With the fungi, much less fertilizer is needed, reducing the sort of over-fertilization that leads to runoff and contamination of ground water. In fact, extra fertilizers may not even have any added effect with the fungi on the job.
While mycorrhizal fungi may not be the absolute cure-all for agriculture, it is certainly the most promising tool to be developed in a very long time, promising to improve the health and yield of plants, reduce the need for fertilizer, improve the soil, and reduce the need for pesticides.
In cell biology, many of the "organelles" (literally, "little organs")of cells are thought to have originally been simple, small cellular organisms that took up residence inside larger ones. Perhaps they were parasites at first, but at some point the relationship became symbiotic, beneficial to both parties. When the large ones replicated, the small ones followed suit, so each new large cell had some of the small ones.
Eventually, they became so interdependent the small ones had become an integral part of the larger cells. An instance considered proof of this is the presence in some species of amoebae of a pair of rod-shaped organelles near the nucleus which look very much like bacteria. Treat the amoeba with a specific substance that kills only bacteria and the amoeba isn't hurt, but the two rod-shaped organelles disintegrate. Only after those organelles are gone does the amoeba die. This suggests the organelles were originally a bacteria-like life form that adapted themselves to living inside the amoeba, until they eventually took over production of a substance, or some other function the amoeba had previously been doing for itself.
It was energy efficient for the amoeba to stop duplicating the the symbiote's efforts, so the amoeba became dependent on the "bacteria," while the "bacteria" lost the ability to live outside the amoeba. Thus, the two organisms became parts of one new form.
It's a truism that patterns repeat in Nature, and this kind of interaction of life, where a species involves itself with another so closely that the two eventually become one, can be seen to repeat at other levels. In this case, we are considering the interaction of soil microflora with plants, and how it fits this pattern.
In the previous articles of this series, about mycorrhizal fungi, we saw that the fungi not only attach themselves to the plant roots, even to the extent of penetrating the cells, they can also send threads out into the soil and interconnect with other fungi attached to the roots of other plants. In essence, they combine entire plant communities into one big super-organism. As they do this, they both use substances from the plants, and provide others to the plants in return. They also translocate photosynthates between plants, as in the case where young trees in a mixed, established forest were found to be receiving a large percentage of their photosynthates from older trees, through the fungal connections. Obviously, this is a very intimately interconnected system, almost resembling the way blood vessels joint different parts of a body. If the fungi are indeed acting as "blood vessels", then it might follow that there would have to be "blood cells" of some sort.
I spent several hours with Dr. Robert Linderman (USDA, attached to Oregon State University) discussing this and related ideas. He pointed out that while the fungi are indeed important to the system, other microflora, such as bacteria, may have a greater role. First, while the fungi provide the connections, it now appears that bacteria travel on and even in the fungal threads, often moving into and out of the plants, both producing and acquiring substances and carrying them into the plants as they go.
But the bacteria almost certainly have a much more important role. Bacteria are commonly thought of as "simple" organisms, yet anyone who has studied them can tell you they are anything but simple. For instance, bacteria can ingest pieces of genetic material directly and incorporate it into their own genetic makeup. That is, they aren't just digesting it and using the amino acids to construct new RNA or DNA, they are taking in whole genes, intact, and incorporating them directly into their own makeup. One proof is in disease-causing bacteria, in which types with a cell wall not resistant to certain antibiotics could be mixed with genetic material from dead cells that had cell walls resistant to the antibiotic, and in short order they had picked up the genetic material and had developed the resistant type of cell wall. Bacteria have also been shown able to metabolize an incredible range of substances, including asphalt, crude oil, even metals. Bacteria can produce chemical compounds that human laboratories cannot, or could only do with great expense and labor.
Bacteria may be uncomplicated in appearance, but they are great metabolizers. Is it any wonder, then, that other life forms would find ways to make use of that ability to metabolize?
Dr. Linderman discussed the role of bacteria and other single celled organisms and concluded that they were as important, if not more so, to the plants than mycorrhizal fungi. Some types we recognize already, such as the rhizobium that colonize the roots of legumes and fix nitrogen. But the full range of what bacteria can do in connection with plants hasn't been worked out yet. In addition to fixing nitrogen, it is likely that they help make other elemental plant nutrients, such as phosphorus, potassium, etc., more readily available to plants, much as the mycorrhizal fungi do. But why couldn't they work with more complex substances?
Suppose you were told to build a house within a certain length of time and were given a choice of piles of materials to work from. The first pile contains only raw logs. You would have to cut them into lumber, finish the lumber and cut it to the needed lengths to be able to build the house.
The second pile, however, contains prefabricated sections of walls, pre-built ceiling joists, etc. A few extra pieces might need to be added or removed here and there, but mostly they can simply be put into their proper positions and be nailed together.
Unless you just like to do things the hard way, you would choose the second pile. With the first pile, you would probably exhaust yourself and might be able to build anything more than basic shelter. With the second pile, you could probably construct a much larger, more elaborate house with less effort.
Why should a plant be any different? Nature is conservative in the extreme, always choosing the route that uses the least energy, whenever possible. If a plant had a way to ingest pre-formed materials into itself, saving it the energy needed to assemble the compounds, why shouldn't it do that? We think of plants as natural synthesizers, taking in water, minerals and carbon dioxide and converting them into sugars, proteins, vitamins, etc...
That life is interconnected has been a common philosophical and spiritual theme down through the ages, but the study of mycorrhizal fungi has greatly strengthened it as a biological one as well.
Work on mycorrhizal fungi has been carried out more extensively and for a longer time in forestry than in other branches of horticulture, as was briefly noted in part one of this article. Work on the ecological niches of the fungi have shown that they may be far more vital to plant growth and the ecology in general than ever considered before. Indeed, their relationships to plants may actually be necessary for some species to be able grow at all.
Lon Rombough
The author of this article wrote a book titled The Grape Grower
http://www.bunchgrapes.com/publications.html
Sunday, November 9, 2008
Iron Chlorosis Signals Problems [EXT]
http://www.ext.vt.edu/departments/envirohort/factsheets2/fertilizer/nov86pr1.html
Iron Chlorosis Signals Problems
Contact: Diane Relf, Extension Specialist, Environmental Horticulture Posted April 1997 Chlorosis means "becoming green." The term was first applied to a human condition in which the skin took on a greenish hue. Today it is more frequently used to describe plants whose normal color is green, but which have a condition which results in a lack of green color in some leaves. Chlorosis in plants results from nutrient deficiency, insufficient light, or certain virus diseases. The most frequent cause of chlorosis linked to nutrient deficiency is iron chlorosis. This develops when a plant is unable to absorb enough iron from the soil. Sometimes the soil does not contain enough iron; but most often iron is in the soil but in a chemical form which makes it unavailable to the plant. Soils with high pH (alkaline) often bind iron in a form plants cannot use. Most plants do not develop iron chlorosis in neutral (pH 7) or slightly acid soil, but begin to develop yellowing as soils become more and more alkaline (pH>7). Such plants include rose, iris, firethorn, spirea, apple and peach.
Some plants require very acid soil and develop iron chlorosis when they are grown in soils which are not acid enough. Such plants include azaleas, rhododendron, holly, hydrangea, blueberry and pin oak.
Iron chlorosis is different from other types of chlorosis; it affects young, new leaves first. Other forms of chlorosis often affect older foliage initially. Leaf color of plants with chlorosis ranges from yellow-green to almost white. Leaves showing iron chlorosis often retain green veins. In severe cases, leaf margins may be brown and die, and eventually entire plants may be killed. Even in mild cases where yellowing is slight, growth is reduced.
Iron chlorosis is usually associated with deficiency or unavailability of iron in the soil but it may also appear when roots are damaged by overwatering, poor drainage, or overfertilization. Any condition that kills roots or does not allow feeder root development can lead to iron chlorosis.Treat iron chlorosis by eliminating the cause. A soil test will determine soil pH. Alkaline soil, or soil which is not acid enough, may be treated with sulfur or iron sulfate to make it more acidic. Poorly drained soils should be improved and plants subject to iron chlorosis should be watered carefully. The color of plants several months after soil is amendmended will indicate need for future treatment.
To achieve temporary improvement in leaf color, there are materials available for providing iron quickly to plants. Iron chelates are organic compounds containing readily-absorbed iron. They can be placed in the soil for absorption by the roots or sprayed in dilute form directly on the leaves. Since the chemical concentration of the compound may vary with manufacturer, carefully follow directions given on the package.
When fertilizer is sprayed onto leaves the process is called foliar fertilization. It is a good way to supply some nutrients, including iron, to plants rapidly, but foliar feeding is not a substitute for good soil conditions. Foliar fertilizer can supplement soil nutrition at a critical time, but to eliminate iron chlorosis, correct the conditions causing it.
(Prepared by Virginia Nathan, Extension Technician, and Diane Relf, Extension Specialist, Environmental Horticulture, Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA 24061-0327.)
Saturday, November 8, 2008
The Myth of Phosphate Fertilizer (EXT)
This is useful resource to explain the impact of excess Phosphate in soil.
Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D., Extension Horticulturist and Associate Professor,
Puyallup Research and Extension Center, Washington State University
The Myth of Phosphate Fertilizer:
"Phosphate fertilizers will stimulate root growth of transplanted trees and shrubs"
This commonly spread myth originates from the legitimate addition of phosphorus to agricultural fields.
Phosphorus is one of the inorganic macronutrients needed by all plants for the manufacture of phosphatecontaining nucleic acids, ATP and membrane lipids. Soils that have been heavily used for agricultural crops are often deficient in phosphorus, as are acid sandy and granitic soils. In landscaped urban soils, however, phosphorus is rarely deficient and the misapplication of this element can have serious repercussions on the plant, the soil environment, and adjoining watersheds.
When an element is limiting in the soil, plant growth slows. This phenomenon is called environmental dormancy. When the deficient element is added, the environmental constraint is lifted and plant growth resumes at the normal rate if nothing else is limiting. Somehow the observation of growth restoration was interpreted as growth stimulation (i.e. a growth rate greater than normal) and hence fertilizers are often regarded as miraculous compounds (just look at the names of some of them!).
One of the classic symptoms of phosphorus deficiency is reddening of the leaves. Unfortunately, many environmental stresses also induce foliar reddening; examples include cold temperature, high light intensity, insect damage, and drought. Urban landscape plants are much more likely to experience one of these stresses than phosphate deficiency.
In contrast to phosphorus, nitrogen is much more likely to be limiting in urban landscapes. Nitrogen deficiency is characterized by overall leaf chlorosis. Among other things, the lack of nitrogen reduces the plant's ability to take up phosphorus. When nitrogen is restored to optimal levels, the plant's ability to scavenge phosphorus from the soil is markedly improved. It's important to realize that when nitrogen is deficient it does not logically follow that other nutrients must be deficient as well.
Because nitrogen is so often deficient in an actively growing landscape, the addition of ammonium nitrate usually restores shoot growth. Phosphate addition, on the other hand, often has no apparent effect (probably because it's generally not limiting in perennial landscapes. This observation has led landscapers and fertilizer manufacturers to claim that phosphorus stimulates root growth (there is no shoot growth, ergo it must be stimulating root growth). The unfortunate result of these assumptions is the mantra "nitrogen for shoots and phosphorus for roots." While there are no nitrogen toxicity symptoms per se, the same cannot be said for phosphate toxicity.
The result of phosphate overfertilizing is leaf chlorosis. Phosphorus is known to compete with iron and manganese uptake by roots, and deficiencies of these two metal micronutrients causes interveinal yellowing. It's my belief that many of the chlorotic shrubs we see in urban landscapes are suffering indirect iron (or manganese) deficiency from overapplication of phosphorus. Moreover, it has been experimentally demonstrated that high levels of phosphorus are detrimental to mycorrhizal health and lower the rate of mycorrhizal infection of root systems. This mutually beneficial relationship between the fungus and the plant roots allows the plant to more effectively explore the soil environment and extract needed nutrients. In the absence of mycorrhizae, the plant must expend more energy growing additional roots and root hairs to accomplish the same task.
In addition to harming beneficial soil organisms, excess phosphate will eventually find its way into waterways. Unlike urban landscapes, aquatic plants are most often limited by phosphate and the addition of phosphate will induce algal blooms (eutrophication). Such blooms are always followed by increased bacterial activity, resulting in lowered oxygen levels and the eventual death of fish and other animals. As green industry professionals, it is incumbent upon us to recognize that excessive use of phosphorus in landscapes is a resource-wasteful, ecosystem-damaging practice.
Bottom line:
• Maintain organic material (mulch) on landscapes; this provides a slow release of phosphorus and other needed macro- and micronutrients over time.
• Don't use phosphate fertilizer when transplanting; in most cases ammonium nitrate fertilizer is
adequate.
• If you have a nutrient deficiency that is not relieved by nitrogen addition, try a foliar application of likely nutrients and see if the symptoms are alleviated. This prevents excessive addition of mineral nutrients to the soil.
For more information, please visit Dr. Chalker-Scott’s web page at http://www.theinformedgardener.com.
Thursday, November 6, 2008
Fertilizer - Feeding the Soil - Part 2
I knew embarking in such a hobby, I'll need to relearn good practises and unlearn some bad ones to create a successful garden.
Well thats the reason why I am posting this Part 2 version.
As I am writing, I have started experimenting some new fertilizers to treat some special conditions on my rose plant.
I didn't know that Vermicompost fertilizer is easily available in major nursery. I bought it immediately as some of plants were in not so good shape after some continous heavy rain in September. The soil was pretty soaked with water. It is so bad that it is similar to those that is picked up from the river bank.

I replaced the soil with new ones as I didn't think the soil condition was reversible. Hopefully my rose can fully recover.
However for those that were not so critical, I tried Vermicompost as a means for preventive measures.
Vermicompost is natural and it is more simplified Nitrogen composition compares to those Organic manure. And it is very effective in binding soils in clumps to form better soil aeration and drainage.

Another thing that I add was the water soluble Miracid N30-P10-K10 fertilizer to increase the acidity of the soil because some of the roses were turning yellow, even the dainthus were turning yellow too.
After a couple of weeks of continous fertilizing, the results were quite tangible. Firstly the drainage has improved despite the continous wet weather. Secondly the top soil is more clumpy, rather than flat as flatness and compact at top soil is sign of too much water.

The leaves vein started to green.

For the healthier ones with numerous new shoots, I started with water soluble N10-P54-K10 by Shultz. I use very little about 1/4 teaspoon, but increase the frequency to 2 times a day. I started this a little too late, as some of the buds doesn't look so good. If I started earlier before the buds mature, perhaps it may produce better result.


Nevertheless it didn't look badly deformed when it bloomed. The bloom shape still intact and petals were looking good.
Just as I am posting this, I am also experimenting the effectiveness of some other fertilizer, especially for more established roses to increase the rate of vermicomposting. It should be something that is economical and at same time one that the earthworms love.
Read continuation in Part 3
Thursday, September 25, 2008
Fertilizer - Feeding the Soil
I use a few types of fertiliser for my roses and garden plants, to suit various situation.
The most common ones that I use is chicken manure (organic fertiliser), which is also the most economical ones. I would apply it every 2 weeks at my roses.
As I feed the plants I will observe the condition of the soil. I look for traces of earth worms, as this is the best indicator of healthy soil. I will also check the soil texture because the soil texture can give you some indication of amount decomposed matter contained in the soil. And when watering I look for bubbles because this indicates that the soil is well aerated and also good indication that the worms are actively working (tunnelling) beneath the soil.Another good indicator is after you feed the soil, the organic fertiliser tend to decompose rather quicker if your soil is riched with earth worms.
If these signs are not present, the soil should look either dry and coarse or the other extreme would be wet and muddy. The plant may look sluggish and growth seemed stunted. In this situation, I will change my feeding pattern. I will use water soluble type.
The reason I revert to water soluble is because this would be the most effective short term remedy to restore the plant. The water soluble type will directly feed into the plants' roots thus gives you ample time to rectify the soil condition. I would use N20-P20-K20 and one that will not "burn" the roots.
For dry and coarse soil, I would water it with water soluble fertiliser more frequently. One teaspoon per 4 litre of water. I will feed probably 2 to 3 times a week.
If the soil is wet and muddy, usually this happens after days of consecutive heavy rain, I would daily fork the soil to ensure proper drainage. And monitor the soil condition for a week or two, if no improvement I will replaced the soil with increased mixture of charcoal granule. The purpose of mixing charcoal is to improve the water drainage. It is important that the soil is well aerated and right amount of moist, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow and spotted. This is sign of over watering.
While it would take some time for the organic manure to decompose, I will continue to use water soluble fertilizer until the rose plant grow some new shoots and more healthy leaves. This is clear sign that the rose plant is restored and growing healthily. As the soil gradually improves, I will gradually reduce the frequency of the water soluble type and revert to vermicomposting process to feed the rose plant.
I won't say what I suggested will surely guarantee results but it would definitely increased the chances of success.
If I want to get some extra blooms, I will use fertiliser formulated for flowering. The most common combination is 18N-24P-18K and will use water soluble type to avoid burning the roots. It is not good to use this too frequently, as it would "exhaust" the plants, especially young ones. It is fine to apply on healthy rose plants with bushy leaves and healthy stems.
Read continuation in Part 2