A PRIMER ON SOIL - ORGANIC AMENDMENTS [EXT]

This is good link that describe each type of organic fertilizer

http://www.rdrop.com/~paul/organics.html


A PRIMER ON SOIL - ORGANIC AMENDMENTS
By Richard Hedenberg, ARS Consulting Rosarian

Organic amendments are any materials that have ever been alive either as plant or animal. Nutrients from organics are not immediately available to the plant. Soil microorganisms are needed to change nutrients through bacterial action into forms the plants can use in solution. Organics give a steady supply of nutrients over a long period of time, however, some, such as fish based products, become available quite quickly in warm moist soil. Organics are primarily a source of nitrogen and trace elements, but many also provide some phosphates and potash. Organics in quantities up to one third of the total soil volume are very beneficial to the soil structure. The organics are converted by the microorganisms and are used by the plant. Therefore, they should be replaced at the rate they are used.

ALFALFA MEAL (3N-lP-2K)

Alfalfa meal or pellets is one of the green manure crops and contains small amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium which feed the plant. However, the biggest benefit of alfalfa is from the work it does in the soil. Alfalfa contains the hormone, Triacontanol, a plant growth regulator. Alfalfa meal can be top dressed and watered in. But quicker benefits are had when alfalfa is brewed into a tea. The primary boost comes from the millions of microbes in the fermented meal that activate the soil organisms that then convert nutrients into forms available to plants. Roses love it. Only apply alfalfa to the surface. If placed in the root zone, the rapid decomposition of alfalfa will generate heat which can damage the roots.

BLOOD MEAL (12-2-1)

Blood meal is a slaughter house by-product and is an excellent source of quickly available organic nitrogen, when used as a top dressing and watered in. Blood meal is completely soluble and can be mixed with water and used as a liquid fertilizer. Meal fertilizers, when not brewed, work best when they are scattered on top of the bed and watered in. Meals blended in the soil can become hot (called curing). All meals are used up fast. Bacterial action works quickly.

BONE MEAL (2-12-2)

Bone is used as a long-lasting source of phosphorous as well as low levels of nitrogen, potassium and calcium. The extremely slow availability of nutrients from bone meal make it a very safe fertilizer, especially when planting of potting very young or new plants.

COMPOST

Compost is the decomposed, cured form of organic matter. Compost, worked into new beds or top dressed and watered into established beds, increases microorganism activity and improves soil character and moisture retention. There is some nutrient value as well. The best source for good compost is making your own.

COTTONSEED MEAL (7 2-2)

Cottonseed meal is a good natural fertilizer with a high percentage of organic nitrogen, perhaps the second best source of organic nitrogen after blood meal. Cottonseed meal is easily obtained at your local feed store. The nitrogen is broken down slowly and is available to the plant over a period of time. Cottonseed meal acidifies the soil.

EARTHWORMS

Worms are nature's own tillers and soil conditioners. Their main benefit is to soil structure where their many tunnels loosen the soil, improving aeration and drainage. Worms don't make the soil healthier, but are an excellent indication of healthy soil. If your pH is way off, earthworms won't stay around. They will leave if they don't like it. Earthworms can be introduced to new beds, but will eventually find their own way to them.

FISH EMULSION (8-12-2)

Fish emulsion is an all-natural organic fish fertilizer with a reputation for eliminating plant doldrums. Many exhibitors refer to it as their secret to growing show winning blooms. When used as a liquid drench, results are quicker than with other organics. It is a low-nitrogen concentrated liquid food containing a wide range of trace elements that will green foliage, grow vigorous roots and big blooms while also enriching the soil. A must for Miniatures. The odor dissipates rapidly.

FISH MEAL (8-12-2)

Fish meal is a great natural fertilizer, high in phosphorous and high in organic nitrogen. Fish meal is quick acting, offering a sustained supply of nutrients. Don't scatter fish meal, because of the strong odor; plug it in a series of holes about ten inches deep that can then be covered with about four inches of soil.

GROUND TREE BARK

Ground bark is sold as a soil conditioner which improves drainage. It has good water holding capacity and eventually breaks down to humus. Tree bark reportedly has a deterrent effect against nematodes. Many rosarians like to use it in an chunk form for mulch. It's use will cause a temporary drop in nitrogen levels in the soil so additional amounts of nitrogen must be added.

MANURES

Manures are a good source of nutrients and organic matter. Aged horse manure can be found in this area and is the preferred one of the manures, excellent as a soil conditioner for any kind of soil or as a mulch. In addition to being an organic source of nitrogen, decomposing manures are chelating agents that function to make trace metals available to plants. Dehydrated cow manure (2-1-2), dried and pulverized comes in fifty pound bags. It has been heat treated to kill weed seeds and is convenient, easy to apply and long-lasting. Manures may be high in salts. About half of the nutrients remaining in manures will be available each year.

MILORGA NITE (6-2-0)

Milorganite is 100% natural organic heat dried activated sewage sludge in a fine granular form. Heat treated for sterilization, it is inoffensive and easy to handle. A high nitrogen source that is also a good source for iron and trace elements that are slow release. Milorganite is easy to top dress with and water into beds and also won't burn roots when used in a soil mix.

SEAWEED PRODUCTS

Kelp meal (1-0-8) is a dry fertilizer made iron seaweed and is very high in potassiumand trace elements. An excellent source of plant hormones that stimulate plant and root growth. Liquid seaweed (4-2-3) has the same characteristics as kelp meal and is a quick boost for greening foliage. When mixed with fish emulsion, it can't be beat.

SPHAGNUM PEAT MOSS

Peat moss is an excellent, long lasting, slow decaying organic material whose greatest value is as a soil amendment promoting moisture retention and improving soil structure. Peat moss can hold water and nutrients ten to fifteen times its own weight when fully saturated and can still hold 40% air. It has little nutrient value itself but is excellent at holding nutrients to prevent them from leaching iron the soil. It will then release them to the plant. Do not apply to the surface. Sphagnum peat moss will repel water when dry. However, once wet and mixed with the soil, it will readily take up moisture. It increases soil acidity, so lime should be added to the sphagnum peat moss at the time of application. Its good traits last about five years before it is decomposed, which explains the logic of not planting a new rose in an old rose hole.

This article originally appeared on ARS's home page. Credit: the ARS and Richard Hedenberg.


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Growing Rose - First 90 days - Part 2

by Richard Chew

To know whether your roses are growing well, we need to watch out for certain signs that the exhibits strong growth.

I have taken some pictures to give you some idea.

The following dark leaves shoots, indicate strongest and most healthy growth.

Dark leaves absorb most light, just like a solar panel in black because black absorb the most light. If your rose produces dark leave (almost black) at early stage, it will most likely give out strong stem growth.







The following is a less sun tolerant rose. It is placed at shaded location. Strong growth is not necessary influenced by the strength of direct sun. As long as there is sufficient light, it should do the job.




After about 1 to 2 weeks, the leaves will gradually turn to green. This will be sign of slower stem growth and gradually the flower bud will form.





The following are signs of weaker growth than the ones above. Though the growth is weaker, it is healthy. After flowering, it should be pruned immediately.




All of the pictures taken below are signs of weak growth. Though they may produce some shoots, it doesn't have that 'push' compare to those above, the leaves are much lighter green. Other signs of weaker growth are the formation of distorted leaves.











In the first 90 days, we need to watch out for strong growths. I realised that if the newly purchased rose plant do not produce some of these strong growths, then there is high chances that it will not grow successfully at your garden.



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read next posting at http://rosegrowing.blogspot.com/2009/04/growing-rose-first-90-days-part-3.html

Growing Rose - First 90 days

by Richard Chew

I believe many would get excited when adding a new rose plant to their garden collection. Whether it is a shrub, miniature or a climbing rose, it is always wonderful to have colorful and striking show piece in our garden.

However how it is being cared for in the first 90 days are important.

I thought it would be a good idea to write a little on this topic, and then gradually add on as I gain more experiences.

To be honest, till now, not all of my new and young rose plants that I purchased survived in the first 90 days. After growing roses for 3 years (started in 2006), I have only a handful that made it through a year. And out of this handful, less than half made it through the 2nd year.

I started this blog in Sept 08, and what I have posted is based on effort, work and research of many trial and error experiments done since 2006. It is only in Sept 2008 that I felt better equipped to share some experiences, it was then that I launched this blog.


Why am I sharing my success rate in this posting? Because this is the very first lesson that I wish to impart before I go on with this topic. The first lesson is ....


Lesson #1 - Keep a positive attitude

Don't give up!! Don't stop!! Keep going!!

It is important to begin a journey with an end in mind. Don't bother to join a race, if you have no intention to finish it. But if you do join in, don't stop. Keep going. Perhaps it may be a longer journey for some. However it is not the distance that matters, it is keeping a positive attitude.

I hope to start this series with a positive note, and get you started with a right frame of mind without putting unrealistic expectations. If you have failed attempts in growing roses and have decided not to try again for some reasons, I wish to encourage you to reconsider your decision.

Give yourself the first 90 days, you may never know what may turn out to be.

Please stay tune for more posting of this series.




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read next posting at .... http://rosegrowing.blogspot.com/2009/04/growing-rose-first-90-days-part-2.html

Dealing with Brown Edge Leave

by Richard Chew


Brown edge leaves is usually associated with potassium deficiencies. It is quite obvious to decide the most logical remedy that it is to treat the deficiencies by feeding the defient nutrients.



However not so, before we treat the deficiencies, need to take some extra effort to check the condition of the soil.



The following is some questions that you need to ask yourself.



1. Have you been fertilizing the soil regularly?

If its once a month, I would say it is regular enough to prevent any nutrient deficiencies.



2. Does your soil drains well?

If there is no water logging after heavy watering, your soil drains well.



3. Is your rose plant receiving sufficient sun light?

If the location where your rose sits receives about 6 to 8 hours of indirect sun light, it is fairly good enough to manufacture and store photosynthesis food in the plant.



If all the above is yes, the solution is quite simple. Just apply some mixture of compost, organic fertilizer (fish meal) and vermicompost on top soil layer.



The purpose of this is to correct your soil condition and to improve availability of nutrients for the roots.

It is not neccessarily that the soil is deficient of particular nutrient, very often it is because nutrients are 'locked' in the soil, thus become unavailable to the plant roots.

It is like offering someone a cup of coffee that is tightly glued on the table. Coffee is available but cannot lift cup to consume it.





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Growing rose the first time?

by Richard Chew

Are you considering growing roses in your garden? Is this your first time? Or perhaps this is your second attempt?

It is not unusual to have failed attempts. I had failed many times but I took it as a learning process. However I must say that it was rewarding to see positive results.

If this is your first time growing roses, I like to share some useful tips that I think will give you a good start.

Tip #1 - First choose a rose plant that is easy to grow. I find that miniature that is sun tolerant is easiest to grow here.




I can understand that we always want to have the prettiest rose for our garden, but most often the prettiest may be more difficult to grow for beginners. Choose one that it is easy to grow, if you have no idea, then choose a miniature that is sun tolerant.


Tip #2 - When buying a rose plant, choose one with strongest stem formation. Rose plants with stronger stem have greater potential for stronger growth and higher chances of success. Also don't just buy 1 rose plant, buy at least 3, so that if one dies, you still have others. This is important to maintain the momentum, as well as continuity in your learning process.


Tip #3 - Place your rose plant at location where it receives about 1 to 3 hours of morning sun. Avoid hot noon and afternoon sun. Please read How much sun does your rose plant need?


Tip #4 - Prune for more growth. Please read Pruning for more growth?


Tip #5 - When doing transplanting, choose a wider container. A wider container provides larger soil surface area that promotes more soil organism activities at the surface. And use the right soil mix. Try my recommendations at Soil Mix - Transplanting Part 2


Tip #6 - Apply mainly fish meal as fertilizer and regularly apply liquid seaweed extract on the soil. Later you may try bone meal for better flowering. As you get better at it, you can try other mixture.


Tip #7 - Spray pine & seaweed mixture on the leaves regularly. This is the organic way to repel pest and diseases. It also acts as foliar feed.


Lastly when you are rewarded with many blooms, please email me your bloom pictures and share your joy with me.


Thanks in advanced.





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