The Myth of Phosphate Fertilizer (EXT)

I extracted this article from http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda%20chalker-scott/Horticultural%20Myths_files/Myths/Phosphate.pdf

This is useful resource to explain the impact of excess Phosphate in soil.


Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D., Extension Horticulturist and Associate Professor,
Puyallup Research and Extension Center, Washington State University


The Myth of Phosphate Fertilizer:

"Phosphate fertilizers will stimulate root growth of transplanted trees and shrubs"
This commonly spread myth originates from the legitimate addition of phosphorus to agricultural fields.

Phosphorus is one of the inorganic macronutrients needed by all plants for the manufacture of phosphatecontaining nucleic acids, ATP and membrane lipids. Soils that have been heavily used for agricultural crops are often deficient in phosphorus, as are acid sandy and granitic soils. In landscaped urban soils, however, phosphorus is rarely deficient and the misapplication of this element can have serious repercussions on the plant, the soil environment, and adjoining watersheds.

When an element is limiting in the soil, plant growth slows. This phenomenon is called environmental dormancy. When the deficient element is added, the environmental constraint is lifted and plant growth resumes at the normal rate if nothing else is limiting. Somehow the observation of growth restoration was interpreted as growth stimulation (i.e. a growth rate greater than normal) and hence fertilizers are often regarded as miraculous compounds (just look at the names of some of them!).


One of the classic symptoms of phosphorus deficiency is reddening of the leaves. Unfortunately, many environmental stresses also induce foliar reddening; examples include cold temperature, high light intensity, insect damage, and drought. Urban landscape plants are much more likely to experience one of these stresses than phosphate deficiency.


In contrast to phosphorus, nitrogen is much more likely to be limiting in urban landscapes. Nitrogen deficiency is characterized by overall leaf chlorosis. Among other things, the lack of nitrogen reduces the plant's ability to take up phosphorus. When nitrogen is restored to optimal levels, the plant's ability to scavenge phosphorus from the soil is markedly improved. It's important to realize that when nitrogen is deficient it does not logically follow that other nutrients must be deficient as well.


Because nitrogen is so often deficient in an actively growing landscape, the addition of ammonium nitrate usually restores shoot growth. Phosphate addition, on the other hand, often has no apparent effect (probably because it's generally not limiting in perennial landscapes. This observation has led landscapers and fertilizer manufacturers to claim that phosphorus stimulates root growth (there is no shoot growth, ergo it must be stimulating root growth). The unfortunate result of these assumptions is the mantra "nitrogen for shoots and phosphorus for roots." While there are no nitrogen toxicity symptoms per se, the same cannot be said for phosphate toxicity.

The result of phosphate overfertilizing is leaf chlorosis. Phosphorus is known to compete with iron and manganese uptake by roots, and deficiencies of these two metal micronutrients causes interveinal yellowing. It's my belief that many of the chlorotic shrubs we see in urban landscapes are suffering indirect iron (or manganese) deficiency from overapplication of phosphorus. Moreover, it has been experimentally demonstrated that high levels of phosphorus are detrimental to mycorrhizal health and lower the rate of mycorrhizal infection of root systems. This mutually beneficial relationship between the fungus and the plant roots allows the plant to more effectively explore the soil environment and extract needed nutrients. In the absence of mycorrhizae, the plant must expend more energy growing additional roots and root hairs to accomplish the same task.


In addition to harming beneficial soil organisms, excess phosphate will eventually find its way into waterways. Unlike urban landscapes, aquatic plants are most often limited by phosphate and the addition of phosphate will induce algal blooms (eutrophication). Such blooms are always followed by increased bacterial activity, resulting in lowered oxygen levels and the eventual death of fish and other animals. As green industry professionals, it is incumbent upon us to recognize that excessive use of phosphorus in landscapes is a resource-wasteful, ecosystem-damaging practice.


Bottom line:

• Maintain organic material (mulch) on landscapes; this provides a slow release of phosphorus and other needed macro- and micronutrients over time.

• Don't use phosphate fertilizer when transplanting; in most cases ammonium nitrate fertilizer is
adequate.

• If you have a nutrient deficiency that is not relieved by nitrogen addition, try a foliar application of likely nutrients and see if the symptoms are alleviated. This prevents excessive addition of mineral nutrients to the soil.

For more information, please visit Dr. Chalker-Scott’s web page at http://www.theinformedgardener.com.

Terminology for Cranberry Bud Development and Growth (EXT)

I extracted this from this from

http://www.hort.wisc.edu/cran/mgt_articles/articles_gen_info/TerminologyCranBudDev/cranbuddev.htm

I find this article interesting because it explains the different stages of bud development.



Beth Ann A. Workmaster, Jiwan P. Palta, and Teryl R. Roper
Department of HorticultureUniversity of Wisconsin-Madison College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, Madison, WI 53706


Cranberry researchers and growers typically use some sort of ad hoc terminology to refer to the growth stages of the bud in the springtime. This can be based on measurements of the changes in size of the bud and the subsequent growth, or on a description of their physical attributes, or morphology. It would be useful to standardize this terminology to aid in communication between and among researchers and growers. We have recently begun a research program at the University of Wisconsin-Madison to study cranberry frost survival. Our goal is to better advise growers about the freezing temperatures to which the plants will survive at different times of the year.


After taking close-up photographs of the buds of the uprights for several weeks in the spring of 1995 we established a visual continuum of spring bud development and growth. As expected, bud hardiness changed dramatically over the course of the spring, from being able to withstand temperatures colder than -4°F when dormant to surviving only temperatures just below freezing after the new uprights elongate. Thus, at different points along that bud developmental continuum significant changes in hardiness occur. In order to assess these changes more specifically we have been working on developing a useful set of terminology for these different bud stages.

The terminology we propose here was developed with input from growers at the 1995 summer field day of the Wisconsin State Cranberry Growers Association and researchers at the 1995 North American Cranberry Researchers and Extension Workers Conference. Our immediate goal for this terminology is to learn more about the relationship between bud stages and frost hardiness, while our longer term goal is to facilitate discussion between and among researchers and growers.

We have chosen to focus on describing the morphological changes in bud development and growth, rather than absolute changes in bud size or stem growth. Reproductive and vegetative buds vary in size, as does the amount of stem elongation during growth. Morphological changes, such as bud swelling and flower pedicel elongation, are more indicative of development than mere increase in size and length. We present here our current terminology. Each stage is represented by one or two pictures and is described below.

1. Tight bud. This is a resting bud that has fulfilled dormancy and chilling requirements. This bud becomes active when favorable growing conditions are present. Bud scales are tightly wrapped. Bud scales are usually light or dark red, especially in the upper part of the canopy. When viewed from the side, buds are compact and nestled down into the top leaves.

2. Bud swell. This bud is no longer at rest. As bud begins to swell, bud scales are pushed outwards and have a slightly loosened appearance. Bud scale margins are more easily seen. Most buds still retain their light or dark red color.

3. Cabbagehead. Substantial swelling of the bud has occurred. Bud scales are opening, but still enclose the new growth. As the name implies, this stage is named for the bud’s ressemblance to a head of cabbage. Many buds have lost much or all of their red pigment. When viewed from the side, buds appear pointy and lengthened, in preparation for the emergence of the new growth.

4. Bud break. New growth emerges through the bud scales. The tips of uppermost new leaves are visible.

5. Bud elongation. New leaves and some flower bracts, which envelope the flower buds, emerge from the bud. All new growth is held tightly and parallel to the stem.

6. Roughneck. Stem elongates significantly. All flower buds and bracts are visible, being held tight to the stem. New leaves are still oriented parallel to the stem. Flower pedicels have not elongated.

7. Hook. Flower pedicels elongate, starting with the lowest flower buds on the upright. The flower bud droops, forming the characteristic hook shape. New leaves are becoming more perpendicular to the stem.

8. Bloom. Flowers open, starting from the lowest buds.

Fertilizer - Feeding the Soil - Part 2

by Richard Chew




I knew embarking in such a hobby, I'll need to relearn good practises and unlearn some bad ones to create a successful garden.


Well thats the reason why I am posting this Part 2 version.




As I am writing, I have started experimenting some new fertilizers to treat some special conditions on my rose plant.


I didn't know that Vermicompost fertilizer is easily available in major nursery. I bought it immediately as some of plants were in not so good shape after some continous heavy rain in September. The soil was pretty soaked with water. It is so bad that it is similar to those that is picked up from the river bank.






I replaced the soil with new ones as I didn't think the soil condition was reversible. Hopefully my rose can fully recover.

However for those that were not so critical, I tried Vermicompost as a means for preventive measures.


Vermicompost is natural and it is more simplified Nitrogen composition compares to those Organic manure. And it is very effective in binding soils in clumps to form better soil aeration and drainage.




Another thing that I add was the water soluble Miracid N30-P10-K10 fertilizer to increase the acidity of the soil because some of the roses were turning yellow, even the dainthus were turning yellow too.



After a couple of weeks of continous fertilizing, the results were quite tangible. Firstly the drainage has improved despite the continous wet weather. Secondly the top soil is more clumpy, rather than flat as flatness and compact at top soil is sign of too much water.






The leaves vein started to green.



For the healthier ones with numerous new shoots, I started with water soluble N10-P54-K10 by Shultz. I use very little about 1/4 teaspoon, but increase the frequency to 2 times a day. I started this a little too late, as some of the buds doesn't look so good. If I started earlier before the buds mature, perhaps it may produce better result.





Nevertheless it didn't look badly deformed when it bloomed. The bloom shape still intact and petals were looking good.


Just as I am posting this, I am also experimenting the effectiveness of some other fertilizer, especially for more established roses to increase the rate of vermicomposting. It should be something that is economical and at same time one that the earthworms love.







Read continuation in Part 3

Useful Tips (EXT)

I found some useful tips from Plant Answers site created by Dr Jerry Parsons.

http://plantanswers.tamu.edu/trees/rose.html


Rose

1. Q. As the weather gets hotter, my roses look worse. What can I do to insure that they survive the summer?

A. Poor cultural practices and neglect during summer months will weaken plants and make it harder for them to survive. Here are some suggestions on summer care of roses:

As flowers fade and petals fall remove old flowers. Otherwise, food and energy will go into seed production rather than plant growth and flower production.

When removing spent flowers cut just above the second five-leaflet leaf above the main cane or branch.

Use a complete fertilizer such as 10-10-5, 15-10-10 or similar formulations at the rate of 1 1/4 pounds per 100 square feet just as new growth starts in spring then apply about 1/3 to

During hot, dry weather water rose beds thoroughly every week to a depth of 8-10 inches.
Control blackspot and mildew by spraying with Benlate or Funginex every 7-10 days from the time new growth starts in the spring and continue throughout the growing season until frost.
So for optimum flower production this summer and fall give your roses that bit of added attention.

2. Q. I think my rose bushes need an overhaul - - they look terrible! Is there anyway to "supercharge" the bushes so they will bloom this fall?

A. The cooler temperatures of fall will stimulate rose bush growth and intensify the color of the rose blooms. Many people do not prepare their roses for this second spring so they miss really the most spectacular, longest lasting bloom period. Roses should be pruned and groomed from now until no later than September 20. Fall pruning is lighter than in the spring. Cut about one-fourth to one-third of the bush. When pruning miniatures, other than cleaning them out, simply cut off all the blooms. When pruning standard size roses remove all of the blooms and bloom pods. When removing the recommended one-fourth of the bush cut all canes back to pencil-size wood, remove any crossing canes which might rub and damage adjoining canes and remove any dead or diseased wood. The general shape of a rose bush should be open-centered or vase-like with canes evenly distributed around the outside. To prolong the bloom period you may want to prune only one-half of your rose bush at a time then wait a week to complete the process. The half which was pruned first will bloom first generally 45 days after pruning occurred. Mid-October should begin the peak rose bloom season. Remove and dispose of all diseased leaves with black spots on the foliage. Black spot fungus must be prevented rather than cured. Prevention is easily accomplished by a 7 - l0 day spray schedule with Funginex fungicide (Black Spot is a fungus disease) and Orthene insecticide for thrips (these cause blooms to stay closed or be mis-shapened). Spraying should continue until the first hard freeze occurs. By September, the spray interval should be shortened to every 7 days since disease is more prevalent. After fall pruning has been done, give the bushes a "shot in the arm" with the addition of fertilizer. Feeding with a water soluble fertilizer should occur every two weeks. Follow instructions by mixing one tablespoon of water soluble fertilizer per gallon of water and pour a gallon of solution around each plant. Don¹t feed with either liquid or dry fertilizers after October 15th so that growth can slow and harden for the winter cold. Water and wait for the beauty of fall - - that's all you have to do to "supercharge" your rose bushes.

3. Q. What are the best roses to grow?

A. Once you decide which rose type you want to plant (most folks will plant a hybrid tea or grandiflora), you will need to know which are the best varieties within those classifications. I not only have a listing of the best rose varieties for this area but also a POP (proof of the pudding) rating as compelled by the best rose growers in the state. Any POP rating above 8.0 is spectacular. Those rose varieties with POP above 7 are considered excellent. The best of the hybrid teas and grandifloras include:

First Prize - a pink-blend colored rose with a long pointed bud. It is a medium sized bush that is somewhat susceptible to black spot and mildew. It is, nevertheless, one of the top rated roses in the world with a POP of 9.1.

Color Magic - a pink blend rose with a "changing color" character with deeper colors of ivory to pink spreading and intensifying as petals are exposed to sunlight. The POP of Color Magic is 8.0.

Fragrant Cloud - This variety produces an orange-red bloom on a medium size bush. The bloom is extremely fragrant and Fragrant Cloud rates a POP of 8.1.

Uncle Joe (Toro)- The best of the red roses with a POP of 7.9.

Bewitched- A medium pink rose that grows on a medium sized bush. It merits a POP of 7.2.

Double Delight - A stunning rose which has a cream colored bloom with red edges. It is one of the most favored of all rose varieties and has a POP rating of 9.0.

Candlelight - A deep yellow bloom which is tinged with pink especially in the fall. Blooms are produced on a tall, vigorous plant. No POP available.

Christian Dior - A medium red bloom with an ovoid pointed bud. It has a large flower and an abundance of blooms. The POP rating is 7.1. The edges of the petals burn in hot dry settings, so it is advisable to plant where it will receive some afternoon shade.

Queen Elizabeth - This is the most popular rose of the Grandiflora class. It has a medium pink bloom, produces an abundance of blooms and rates a POP of 9.1.

White Masterpiece - Very large (up to 8 inches across), double centered white flower. It's POP is only 7.3 because of double-centered, non-displayable blooms.

Montezuma - A double, deep coral-pink colored bloom with 32-40 petals. Montezuma comes very close to the grandiflora ideal with a POP of 7.1.

Touch of Class - It is a pink blend which normally has super form. When it has been in commerce long enough to have a rating it should certainly be a POP of over 9.0.

In the floribunda category the winners are Fire King, an orange red with a POP of 7.5;

Gene Boerner, a medium pink rose that grows on a very tall and bushy plant--this variety has a POP of 8.8, one of the highest rated floribunda;

Little Darling, which would seem misnamed since it is an extremely tall and spreading bush with a profusion of yellow blend blooms of a hybrid tea form, has a POP of 8.8;

Pink Rosette is an older variety with low height and bushy pattern of growth yet it is extremely floriferous (it is not unusual for 20-25 blooms to be on one cane; and, last but not least,

Rose Parade, a pink blend bloom on a bush of medium height, has a POP of 7.7.

In the climbing rose category, the varieties Blaze (medium red), Climbing America (coral pink) and Don Juan (deep red) are recommended. Some of the best miniatures are Beauty Secret (medium red), Dreamglo (red blend), Party Girl (yellow blend), Starina (orange-red) and Starglo (white).

Miniatures have become very popular in the last few years. As a result hundreds of new cultivars have bee introduced with different results.

The top five exhibition winners in the country are Jean Kenneally, a tall apricot blend with a POP of 7.9;

Minnie Pearl, a tall and bushy plant with pink blend blooms and a POP 8.1;

Snow Bride, a medium sized white bloom with a POP of 8.0;

Party Girl, a yellow blend on a medium sized bush and a POP of 8.0;

and Little Jackie, a vigorous, tall bush that produces a light petaled, orange blend bloom. Others, in order of preference, are Rainbow's End, a yellow blend on a medium sized plant and a POP of 8.0

and Starina, a small to medium, orange red whose POP is the highest in the world at 9.6.

Two others that produce well in this climate are Kathy Robinson, a tall, bushy plant that has pink blend blooms with a POP of 8.7

and Over-The-Rainbow, a medium size plant with a bushy growth habit which produces a red blend colored rose with a POP of 8.5.

4. Q: When do you prune roses? Climbing roses?

A: Hybrid tea, Grandiflora and Floribunda roses require annual pruning in the spring just prior to bud break. If rose bushes are pruned too early, injury from late frost may make a second pruning necessary. Climbing roses should be pruned in the fall, any time after cold weather sets in. Old rambler roses should be pruned immediately after flowering.

5. Q: Leaves are eaten off my rose bush. Sometimes the whole leaf blade is gone, and other times, the leaf is half eaten. What type of insect is eating my plants?

A: Probably some type of chewing insect. Examine plants frequently to see if any pests can be found. Treatment depends on insect. Leaf cutting bees or ants are a common problem.

6. Q: Should I or could I pour pickle juice around roses?

A: Pickle juice would be acid, so it would lower the pH somewhat, but sulfur would be a better choice. You would need to know the actual pH before you did anything.

7. Q: When and how do you start rose cuttings?

A: Roses can be started from terminal cuttings or leaf bud cuttings. However, because all hybrid roses are grafted onto a common root stock you should buy the variety you want that is already grafted.

8. Q: Does the petal count of roses determine the number of days before subsequent blooms occur?

A: Yes, on hybrid teas. According to the Rose Society if a flower has forty petal blooms when cut, then it will take 40 days to rebloom. However, this is a broad rule of thumb.

9. Q: Can fish oil be used to feed roses?

A: No, not strong enough. Suggest 12-12-12 or 10-20-10.

10. Q: Do you need organic material, iron and nitrogen fertilizer for roses?

A: Needs organic material; iron is not a usual problem in most rose beds; suggest 12-12-12 or 10-20-10 fertilizer rather than straight nitrogen.

11. Q. I have heard about the great attributes of old-fashioned or antique roses. What do you know about them?

A. Though these plants do have some redeeming features, they are not what most people want in a garden rose. Many consider Belinda's Rose (Belinda's Dream) to be the best (most desirable qualities of disease resistant, fragrance, durability, flower form) rose in the world.

12. Q. I think my rose bushes need an overhaul - - they look terrible! Is there anyway to "supercharge" the bushes so they will bloom this fall?

A. The cooler temperatures of fall will stimulate rose bush growth and intensify the color of the rose blooms. Many people do not prepare their roses for this second spring so they miss really the most spectacular, longest lasting bloom period. Roses should be pruned and groomed from now until no later than September 20. Fall pruning is lighter than in the spring. Cut about one-fourth to one-third of the bush. When pruning miniatures, other than cleaning them out, simply cut off all the blooms. When pruning standard size roses remove all of the blooms and bloom pods. When removing the recommended one-fourth of the bush cut all canes back to pencil-size wood, remove any crossing canes which might rub and damage adjoining canes and remove any dead or diseased wood. The general shape of a rose bush should be open-centered or vase-like with canes evenly distributed around the outside. To prolong the bloom period you may want to prune only one-half of your rose bush at a time then wait a week to complete the process. The half which was pruned first will bloom first generally 45 days after pruning occurred. Mid-October should begin the peak rose bloom season. Remove and dispose of all diseased leaves with black spots on the foliage. Black spot fungus must be prevented rather than cured. Prevention is easily accomplished by a 7-10 day spray schedule with Funginex fungicide (Black Spot is a fungus disease) and Orthene insecticide for thrips (these cause blooms to stay closed or be mis-shapened). Spraying should continue until the first hard freeze occurs. By September, the spray interval should be shortened to every 7 days since disease is more prevalent. After fall pruning has been done, give the bushes a "shot in the arm" with the addition of fertilizer. Feeding with a water soluble fertilizer should occur every two weeks. Follow instructions by mixing one tablespoon of water soluble fertilizer per gallon of water and pour a gallon of solution around each plant Don't feed with either liquid or dry fertilizers after October 15th so that growth can slow and harden for the winter cold. Water and wait for the beauty of fall - - that's all you have to do to "supercharge" your rose bushes.

13. Q. I have weird looking leaves on the growing tips of my rose bushes. The affected leaves have a whitish-grayish, dust- like substance on them. What is causing this problem and how can I solve it?

A. You have a BIG problem but a common one. Pest control is one of the major problems facing area rose growers. Insects such as thrips damage flower buds and cause them not to open or to form odd-shaped blooms. These insects must be prevented rather than waiting until damage occurs before acting. Once damaged, blooms are not salvageable. The same is true for foliage diseases--prevention rather than cure should be the rule. The most notorious of the rose foliage diseases are black spot and powdery mildew, which can severely damage most of leaves and impair the plant's ability to produce a bounty of large, beautiful blooms. The black spot fungus disease is prevented by applying triforine (Ortho Funginex) or benomyl (Greenlight Systemic Fungicide) spray every 7-10 days. Powdery mildew, the affliction which you describe as affecting your roses, is best controlled with bayleton (Greenlight Fung-Away) or benomyl (Greenlight Systemic Fungicide). Apply Orthene, diazinon or malathion for insect control when necessary. Do not apply a mixture of Orthene and Funginex more than two weeks in a row. Applying insecticides and fungicides separately is safer for plant health. Also, using insecticide on the buds only, rather than the entire bush, gets super results for insect control. These pesticide sprays are a necessity if rose growers expect an abundance of perfect blooms on disease-free plants.

14. Q. My 22 hybrid tea roses and five climbing roses have been damaged by a late freeze. The new green growth, leaves about three inches, have turned brown and some of the canes on the hybrid teas are black and soft. In 12 years of growing rosese I have not experienced any damage this severe. Should I remove the brown leaves and blackened canes now or wait until warmer weather? Should I fertilize to encourage new growth now or wait until new growth appears on it's on, hopefully they are not dead. What setbacks am I to expect?

A: Wait until the plants recover and begin a new flush of growth -- then cut all dead wood above the flushing area. If you want to do something now, it is a safe bet to remove blackened, withered wood. However, some buds may be damaged, even on green wood, to a point they will not initiate foliage. BEWARE that you don't forget most roses are grafted so if sprouts and shoots arise only from beneath the graft union, you have lost the rose. I would wait on fertilization until after the sprouting has begun then feed as you would normally.

15. Q. I have a Fragrant Cloud rose that has white spots covering the older canes, and it has spread to some of the leaves. The smaller canes have turned brown and died back. The spots are not moving (not bugs). Any clues?

A: You are dealing with "critters" on your Fragrant Cloud (GOOD CHOICE!!) rose called scale. They are aphid-like covered with a white sheild. When you prune next February, try to remove all affected branches. If you just have one bush, you can rub all you see off with your hand. You can direct spray them with an insecticide such as Orthene or direct spray with a summer oil spray. BE SURE to be careful and FOLLOW label instructions with the summer oil spray or you can damage your plant to the point of death. Roses are having a hard time with these hot temperatures but summer prune them in September for beautiful fall bloom in cool temperatures.

16. Q: Could you please enlighten me on the history of the yellow rose of texas?

A: The "Yellow Rose of Texas" according to the history was NOT a flower but a lady-of-the-night who kept Santa Anna "occupied" to delay battle so that reinforcements could arise. Ironically, the yellow rose is the weakest of all rose colors -- horticulturists and rose breeders are constantly trying to find a good, yellow rose. In Dr. William Welch's book, Antique Roses For the South, he indicates that "Pioneers moving westward often took 'Harrison's Yellow' with them, and it persists in old California gardens today, testifying to the transcontinental trek to new frontiers. Some historians consider 'Harrison's Yellow' to be the "Yellow Rose of Texas".