Feeding the Soil - Part 4

by Richard Chew

After my previous improvements as posted in Feeding the Soil - Part 3, there is marked improvement, but I was still not very satisfied with the rate of decomposition.

Upon learning that peat moss helps decrease pH of soil and also increase rate of decomposition of organic matter, I decided to add peat moss as top soil. Peat moss has carbon nitrogen ratio of 50:1. And it has higher population of actinomycete bacteria that is responsible to decompose organic matter. This decomposition process is also known as mineralization of organic matter that converts organic matter into non-organic ammonia mineral. Subsequently ammonia is used by other bacterias for their metabolic activities, also known as nitrogen fixing. During the metabolic activities, these bacteria will respire nitrogen into a form that can be taken in by plant roots as nutrients.

The peat moss also aids in decomposing dry fertilizer (pellets form - chicken and sheep manure), including those that are highly processed which are harder to decompose. Mixing dry fertilizer with the peat moss, will help to break down the fertilizer more easily thus faster release of needed nutrients into the soil. Without peat moss (or any substance that aids decomposition), the bacteria may draw nitrogen from the soil to break down the fertilizer. This is the reason why the dosage of fertilizer must correspond with the size and health of the plant. Otherwise both the fertilizer and the plant roots would be competing for the same source of nitrogen. To build on that, if the plant roots are not healthy, the same bacteria that decompose the organic matter may choose to 'attack' the roots instead because the unhealthy roots become easier to break down.

However peat moss need to be mixed with other low carbon nitrogen ratio matter to create a better soil metabolic effect. Peat moss by itself, tends to retain too much moisture and may invite more fungal decomposition. Its surface tends to be grayish (sign of fungal). Of course retaining moisture has it benefits, but if too much may tightened the top soil that impedes aeration especially after heavy rain fall. Too high moisture content will lead to anaerobic fermentation, because the soil structure lacks access to O2 thus will increase the soil pH (alkaline soil). This probably explains the cause of chlorosis at my Nozomi rose which is sign of suffering from the inability to absorb iron. More about my experience in countering chlorosis in my next posting.

Having mentioned the above I need to clarify that the grayish texture at the peat moss surface is not a bad sign. It actually confirms the presence of actinomycete, a kind of fungal bacteria (because it is fillimous, and has spores) for decomposing organic matter. If its high with actinomycete, don't be surprise a mushroom may suddenly spring up from the soil in the early morning.

To prevent or to minimise anaerobic fermentation (that will increase soil pH), we need to add material that provide good top soil structure for better aeration to aid aerobic decomposition. And it should contain low carbon so that metabolic activities can be raised without depleting nitrogen at the top soil.

I used grass cuttings. It is inexpensive. It cost about RM2.60 per pack. It has the right carbon nitrogen ratio (20:1), that utilises nitrogen from its own source when decomposing. And its structure goes well with peat moss to improve top soil aeration. I would mix about 50% (of volume, not weight) with the peat moss. I noticed a dramatic difference in the soil structure after mixing it with grass cuttings.

The top soil becomes less tight, much softer and more fluffier (better aeration). I noticed it becomes brownier (and less grayish) when I turn over the top soil on the following day This is good sign of good compost soil.

I have just pruned my Portmeirion rose. I did the top soil as mentioned above. Hopefully by Dec I will get good display of flower. The rose is responding well with some buds at the main stem. Hope to get about 10 strong shoots for flowering.

Fertilizer - Feeding the Soil - Part 3

by Richard Chew

As I uncover more research on microbes and soil science, I began to realise and more appreciative of the little things that God has blessed mankind with. These lowly creatures though invisible to our naked eyes, they were there at the very beginning providing the crucial link in our food chain long before we ever discovered its existence.

If we understand the functions of these creatures correctly and work with them, we allow God's creation to work wonders in our garden. It is unfortunate, perhaps due to ignorance or lack of knowledge that man chose a different route. Chemicals, pesticides and are other 'synthetic' methods are being used to get the maximum yield. Unfortunately I belonged to that category.

Nevertheless it is never too late to learn and change.

One of the important lesson that I learned was to understand the carbon and nitrogen relationship. It is generally accepted that the best ratio is 30:1, that means the fertilizer mixture should have 30 parts of carbon to 1 part of nitrogen.

Previously I usually use a pre-mixed fertilizer that contains all the necessary ingredients that includes large amount of saw dust, chicken manure, fish meal and newspaper cuttings. Not knowing the ratio, I applied on young and establised roses. I had mixture of results. Some works well and some not. I didn't understand, till I picked up materials that explains the carbon nitrogen relationship.

The most noticeable 'side effects' was the yellowing black spots leaves. It only happened on the roses that I applied with the pre-mixed fertilizer that contains large amount of saw dust.
After applying for a week, I noticed the top soil was quite tight as I tried to loosen it. It was later that I learned that the saw dust has very high carbon content (about 400:1 ratio). And that probably explains the depletion of nitrogen in the early stage of decomposition.

I had to quickly, replace the top soil by mixing with compost soil that has ratio of 10:1. It helps to decompose faster and at same time provide higher nitrogen to bring down the total carbon nitrogen ratio. The following week, I noticed the number of yellow black spots leaves remain the same (no increased). So far it is working well.

In the same period of mixed, I water the roses with Miracid regularly. I don't expect a dramatic turn of results, but would expect greener foliage in 2 weeks time.

As for my Nozomi rose, I noticed it has greener shoots since I started aggressive watering with Miracid. It was quite badly infected with chlorosis. The leaves turned to very light green, almost yellow. Fortunately it has improved with this recent new shoot.







The diagrams below illustrates the Ion exchange responsible for cation & anion exchange in soil solution. Rhizo bacteria assist in the absorption of essentials minerals into the roots system. This goes to show, how important microbes are in assisting plant growth.

Calcium and Magnesium uptake

Phosphorus, Zinc & Copper uptake

Just as I am writing this post, I faced with a challenge to recover one of my rose that got injured during transplanting. To make matter worse, the rose was infected with initial chlorosis. The older leaves had lighter green tone.

And to add on the disaster, the soil that I replaced with were not fully compost. After transplanting, the following day the rose was droopy. My initial thought was that I didn't water enough. It was the following day, my worst fear confirmed. It was still as droopy.

I realised the problem is more severe. There was high chance that I may had injured the roots. At this time I noticed dieback at one of the main stem.

I immediately engaged into aggressive recovery. Cut out affected stems. Replaced the soil. Applied compost soil, rotted manure and vermicompost. Regular water with Miracid and fork the soil to create better aeration.

Chances are pretty slim that it can fully recover. But it is worth a try. Hopefully this would be sufficient to turn it around.

Read continuation in Part 4

Fertilizer - Feeding the Soil - Part 2

by Richard Chew




I knew embarking in such a hobby, I'll need to relearn good practises and unlearn some bad ones to create a successful garden.


Well thats the reason why I am posting this Part 2 version.




As I am writing, I have started experimenting some new fertilizers to treat some special conditions on my rose plant.


I didn't know that Vermicompost fertilizer is easily available in major nursery. I bought it immediately as some of plants were in not so good shape after some continous heavy rain in September. The soil was pretty soaked with water. It is so bad that it is similar to those that is picked up from the river bank.






I replaced the soil with new ones as I didn't think the soil condition was reversible. Hopefully my rose can fully recover.

However for those that were not so critical, I tried Vermicompost as a means for preventive measures.


Vermicompost is natural and it is more simplified Nitrogen composition compares to those Organic manure. And it is very effective in binding soils in clumps to form better soil aeration and drainage.




Another thing that I add was the water soluble Miracid N30-P10-K10 fertilizer to increase the acidity of the soil because some of the roses were turning yellow, even the dainthus were turning yellow too.



After a couple of weeks of continous fertilizing, the results were quite tangible. Firstly the drainage has improved despite the continous wet weather. Secondly the top soil is more clumpy, rather than flat as flatness and compact at top soil is sign of too much water.






The leaves vein started to green.



For the healthier ones with numerous new shoots, I started with water soluble N10-P54-K10 by Shultz. I use very little about 1/4 teaspoon, but increase the frequency to 2 times a day. I started this a little too late, as some of the buds doesn't look so good. If I started earlier before the buds mature, perhaps it may produce better result.





Nevertheless it didn't look badly deformed when it bloomed. The bloom shape still intact and petals were looking good.


Just as I am posting this, I am also experimenting the effectiveness of some other fertilizer, especially for more established roses to increase the rate of vermicomposting. It should be something that is economical and at same time one that the earthworms love.







Read continuation in Part 3

Fertilizer - Feeding the Soil

by Richard Chew

I use a few types of fertiliser for my roses and garden plants, to suit various situation.


The most common ones that I use is chicken manure (organic fertiliser), which is also the most economical ones. I would apply it every 2 weeks at my roses.



As I feed the plants I will observe the condition of the soil. I look for traces of earth worms, as this is the best indicator of healthy soil. I will also check the soil texture because the soil texture can give you some indication of amount decomposed matter contained in the soil. And when watering I look for bubbles because this indicates that the soil is well aerated and also good indication that the worms are actively working (tunnelling) beneath the soil.




Another good indicator is after you feed the soil, the organic fertiliser tend to decompose rather quicker if your soil is riched with earth worms.




If these signs are not present, the soil should look either dry and coarse or the other extreme would be wet and muddy. The plant may look sluggish and growth seemed stunted. In this situation, I will change my feeding pattern. I will use water soluble type.

The reason I revert to water soluble is because this would be the most effective short term remedy to restore the plant. The water soluble type will directly feed into the plants' roots thus gives you ample time to rectify the soil condition. I would use N20-P20-K20 and one that will not "burn" the roots.

For dry and coarse soil, I would water it with water soluble fertiliser more frequently. One teaspoon per 4 litre of water. I will feed probably 2 to 3 times a week.


If the soil is wet and muddy, usually this happens after days of consecutive heavy rain, I would daily fork the soil to ensure proper drainage. And monitor the soil condition for a week or two, if no improvement I will replaced the soil with increased mixture of charcoal granule. The purpose of mixing charcoal is to improve the water drainage. It is important that the soil is well aerated and right amount of moist, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow and spotted. This is sign of over watering.


While carrying out these contingencies, I will feed the soil with organic manure and add some earth worms to cultivate vermicomposting that naturally converts organic matter into useful nutrients for the plants. Check the table.

While it would take some time for the organic manure to decompose, I will continue to use water soluble fertilizer until the rose plant grow some new shoots and more healthy leaves. This is clear sign that the rose plant is restored and growing healthily. As the soil gradually improves, I will gradually reduce the frequency of the water soluble type and revert to vermicomposting process to feed the rose plant.



I won't say what I suggested will surely guarantee results but it would definitely increased the chances of success.

If I want to get some extra blooms, I will use fertiliser formulated for flowering. The most common combination is 18N-24P-18K and will use water soluble type to avoid burning the roots. It is not good to use this too frequently, as it would "exhaust" the plants, especially young ones. It is fine to apply on healthy rose plants with bushy leaves and healthy stems.


Read continuation in Part 2