Showing posts with label recover. Show all posts
Showing posts with label recover. Show all posts

Thursday, February 19, 2009

Operation Recovery - Hybrid Rose - Part 2

by Richard Chew

This is continuation of my last post in Dec.

http://rosegrowing.blogspot.com/2008/12/operation-recovery-hybrid-rose.html

In case you are wondering what happened to this rose. It didn't get through.

It deteriorated very quickly when I applied my home-made aerated compost tea.

I learned that feeding needs changes when the rose plant become more established. I believe the soil was too acidic, if it was less acidic the recovery would have been quicker. And also by adding the compost tea, I probably introduced unfavourable soil organism into the soil, thus affected the roots.

Monday, December 22, 2008

Dealing with cholorotic Nozomi Rose - Part 3

by Richard Chew


This is continuation since my posting 2 weeks ago.



The result is very encouraging. Had quite a number of new growth.










The leaves are greener, though it was hit by continous rain, the leaves remained healthy. This is good sign.





In the next 2 weeks, I expect some bulbs to develop from these shoots.



What did I do since my last posting?

About a week ago, I added some brown mulch at the top soil and moist the soil with compost tea. It is not exactly the same compost tea that is commonly sold in nursery, this one was home-made. It is popularly known as AACT, which stands for Actively Aerated Compost Tea. I will share more about the ingredients and the process of making this tea in my future postings.













This torned leave, must have been caused by an insect or a bug. I believe it didn't taste good, therefore the leave remained (no big munch). I learned that bugs and insects usually target stressed out plant, because stressed plant produces higher amounts of amino acids thus provide better taste and flavour for insects to munch.



Putting it in another angle, healthy plants taste awful for insects. This is excellent natural insect repellant !!!



And another plus benefit is that hungry insects tends to target mites & mealy bugs especially if they can't find tasty leaves for food. In a way insects do provide some benefit though they are sometimes can be a real pest. They help control population of mites, aphids and mealy bugs.




Ooops... I am going off topic... Cut the long story short... bottom line is healthier plants keep pest away. This is indeed a very very good sign.


Ok... back to the topic.


Though it is still early to confirm my findings. I am quite encouraged by the positive signs. Considering the amount of rain that my Nozomi rose had to endure for the past few weeks, and the persisting chlorotic condition for months, I would say it is responding excellently well.


I am going to leave this plant alone and not 'tamper' with the soil for another 2 weeks. And shall examine how it progress with little 'human' intervention. The objective here is to find a 'lasting' remedy that corrects the root problem.
Just this morning I noticed some fungal mushroomed from the mulch. This is another good sign that the organism beneath the soil is actively at work!!



At this recovery rate, I believe I will see some new flower bulbs developing soon. And yes this Nozomi rose shall definitely feature in my January bloom posting!!!


Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Operation Recovery - Hybrid Rose

by Richard Chew





I started with this Hybrid Rose for some time. If my memory served me right, it has been in my garden for 2 years.








The picture on the left was taken in end October. The photo on the right was taken in August (2 months earlier). The flower petals were getting lesser.







This photo was taken back in March (7 months earlier since Oct picture). The flower development was quite complete and full at that time.



For the past couple of months, I had countless problems with it. The stem didn't look good. The leaves defoliate shortly after flowering. And scales started appearing at the main stems.




Initially I suspected that it didn't have sufficient sun light but already discounted that possibility after running some checks and research on photosynthesis and plant respiration.



I also ensured that it had the right carbon and nitrogen ratio when I fertilized the soil. The rose responded to my change in fertilizing, but the results wasn't favourable, as you can see the photos taken above. I eliminated the c:n ratio that was the caused to this problem.




I can't say there was anything wrong with the soil, as there were lots of worms residing in the soil. This is clear sign that indeed there are lots of life in the soil. I reasoned if the soil is not healthy, my rose would have died by now.




But it still stood alive, though it was at a very sorry state. Something was missing.




I tried pruning off unhealthy stems. As there weren't many healthy stems left, I dared not prune too aggresively. I knew at this current deteriorating state, it has too little energy remained to push out healthy buds and leaves, therefore I did not prune too deep (I pruned further away from the main stem).







Unfortunately the plant remained at slow and weak growth for subsequent weeks. I kind of gave up and tranfered this Hybrid rose to a smaller pot, perhaps I didn't cultivate this rose well enough therefore it is now beyond return. I might as well give more attention to my other healthier rose. It was a demotion for my Hybrid rose.




At that time of transplanting, I was doing some reading on soil micro-organism. I've learned that the nitrogen fertilizer in different forms affects the soil microbes differently. I was astounded with the impact that we do to the millions of soil microbes in the soil through the way we fertilize it. A good healthy soil require a balance population of varying soil microbes to enable to fight off diseases and to feed sufficient nutrients to the plant roots.




To cut the long story short, I learned that my rose which has grown for over 2 years (to a medium size shrub), thrives on fungal dominated soil. No wonder the fertilizing didn't work as the method used favoured bacteria dominated soil. It worked well in the beginning as young roses require bacteria dominated soil, however as it grows larger its needs changes and thrive better on fungal dominated soil.



Immediately I altered the soil and changed my method of fertilizing. The result after 2 weeks was astounding. Not only the leaves were developing well on existing buds, there were new buds emerging from stronger stems. This is excellent sign of recovery. For the past couple of months, there were never any new shoots coming from the main stem. This time, just a little change made such a dramatic impact.



I will explain on the fertilizing part in my next feeding the soil series postings. At this moment, I wish to show you some of the pictures taken recently.




Remarkably a shoot emerged from a bigger stem.







Another one coming from the main stem (Shoot no 2).






I noticed a eye bud appearing at the main stem. Usually after a while it would die back (blackened). However I am hoping this time it will develop successfully.


I didn't realise the kind of impact we can do to the soil microbes. If we team with them well, they will work towards your goal and get to do their job excellently well.


Well lets not get to carried away. I think it is too early to conclude my discovery, however this is a good sign and indication that I am heading to the right direction. Hopefully my friendly soil microbes will help me restore my Hybrid and make it a more bushier rose.


I will post the latest development in 2 weeks time.










Saturday, November 15, 2008

Fertilizer - Feeding the Soil - Part 3

by Richard Chew

As I uncover more research on microbes and soil science, I began to realise and more appreciative of the little things that God has blessed mankind with. These lowly creatures though invisible to our naked eyes, they were there at the very beginning providing the crucial link in our food chain long before we ever discovered its existence.
If we understand the functions of these creatures correctly and work with them, we allow God's creation to work wonders in our garden. It is unfortunate, perhaps due to ignorance or lack of knowledge that man chose a different route. Chemicals, pesticides and are other 'synthetic' methods are being used to get the maximum yield. Unfortunately I belonged to that category.
Nevertheless it is never too late to learn and change.
One of the important lesson that I learned was to understand the carbon and nitrogen relationship. It is generally accepted that the best ratio is 30:1, that means the fertilizer mixture should have 30 parts of carbon to 1 part of nitrogen.
Previously I usually use a pre-mixed fertilizer that contains all the necessary ingredients that includes large amount of saw dust, chicken manure, fish meal and newspaper cuttings. Not knowing the ratio, I applied on young and establised roses. I had mixture of results. Some works well and some not. I didn't understand, till I picked up materials that explains the carbon nitrogen relationship.

The most noticeable 'side effects' was the yellowing black spots leaves. It only happened on the roses that I applied with the pre-mixed fertilizer that contains large amount of saw dust.
After applying for a week, I noticed the top soil was quite tight as I tried to loosen it. It was later that I learned that the saw dust has very high carbon content (about 400:1 ratio). And that probably explains the depletion of nitrogen in the early stage of decomposition.


I had to quickly, replace the top soil by mixing with compost soil that has ratio of 10:1. It helps to decompose faster and at same time provide higher nitrogen to bring down the total carbon nitrogen ratio. The following week, I noticed the number of yellow black spots leaves remain the same (no increased). So far it is working well.


In the same period of mixed, I water the roses with Miracid regularly. I don't expect a dramatic turn of results, but would expect greener foliage in 2 weeks time.





As for my Nozomi rose, I noticed it has greener shoots since I started aggressive watering with Miracid. It was quite badly infected with chlorosis. The leaves turned to very light green, almost yellow. Fortunately it has improved with this recent new shoot.







The diagrams below illustrates the Ion exchange responsible for cation & anion exchange in soil solution. Rhizo bacteria assist in the absorption of essentials minerals into the roots system. This goes to show, how important microbes are in assisting plant growth.





Calcium and Magnesium uptake






Phosphorus, Zinc & Copper uptake


Just as I am writing this post, I faced with a challenge to recover one of my rose that got injured during transplanting. To make matter worse, the rose was infected with initial chlorosis. The older leaves had lighter green tone.

And to add on the disaster, the soil that I replaced with were not fully compost. After transplanting, the following day the rose was droopy. My initial thought was that I didn't water enough. It was the following day, my worst fear confirmed. It was still as droopy.

I realised the problem is more severe. There was high chance that I may had injured the roots. At this time I noticed dieback at one of the main stem.

I immediately engaged into aggressive recovery. Cut out affected stems. Replaced the soil. Applied compost soil, rotted manure and vermicompost. Regular water with Miracid and fork the soil to create better aeration.

Chances are pretty slim that it can fully recover. But it is worth a try. Hopefully this would be sufficient to turn it around.

Read continuation in Part 4

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Mycorrhiza [EXT]

I extracted this from http://www.bunchgrapes.com/mycorrhiza.html

It has good explanations on the role of fungal in roots.


by Lon Rombough

Mycorrhizal Fungii

In farming lore of times past it was a practice of French (and other) farmers to "bless" a new field by sprinkling it with earth from an older field known to be productive. Modern research has now shown that such a ceremony may have more than spiritual value.

It has been found that many species of fungi, beyond just breaking down and feeding on dead plants and animals, associate themselves with the roots of living plants, establishing a symbiotic relationship. These mycorrhizal fungi produce fungal threads that coat the plant roots, even penetrating the cells in many cases, getting nutrients from the plant while providing benefits for it's host at the same time. Indeed, a large number of plants require this "invasion" for good health, and many others are much better off with than without the fungi. Orchids and pines, for example, can't even grow normally without the presence of the right species of fungi on their roots. Another plant requiring fungi on it's roots is the temperate fruit,the pawpaw (Asimina triloba).

Foresters have been aware that plants need fungi for some years. In the Pacific Northwest, the seedlings in Douglas fir nurseries did better when the soil they were growing in was given an inoculation of soil from an old stand of the same species. Inoculating the soil of the nursery with fungi from old trees helped the young trees get off to a much better start.

Home growers and farmers knew composting helped plants, but probably thought it was simply the nutrients, when it fact the compost also helped by introducing more fungi into the soil, and providing improved conditions for them to grow, so that they might form associations with the plant roots. Since then, the study of fungi and how they associate with the roots of plants has moved into many new areas.

There are four classifications of mycorrhizal fungi, based largely on how they associate with the plant roots.

The first are the "ectomycorrhizal fungi". "Ecto" is a prefix meaning"outside,", so ectomycorrizahal fungi are ones that wrap themselves around the outside of the roots, without actually penetrating the cells, though they may insert themselves between the cells, even if they don't actually penetrate the cell walls. Because they tend to form a sheath around the roots of the plant, these mycorrhizas can actually be seen with the naked eye, or under a lens. They tend to suppress the formation of root hairs, but stimulate the growth of many more short roots than normal, so the plant has much more root growth overall. Root tips can be seen to be covered with a white layer, and fungal threads, or strands, are visible on and around the root.

Second are the "endomycorrhizal fungi." "Endo" = "into," thus endomycorrhizal fungi actually invade the cells, sending their hyphae, or fungal threads, into the cells of the roots themselves. They are not always obviously visible to the naked eye, though their effects may be seen in many ways, however, as we'll see farther on. They are also known as Vesicular Arbuscular Mycorrhizal (or VAM) fungi.

The third group are an "in between" group, the "ectendomycorrhizal"types, which has characteristics of the other two groups. Some researchers now put these types into one or the other of the first two classifications.

The fourth group, mentioned only in passing because of it's oddity, is something of a maverick, the "ericoid" mycorrhizas. One plant family, the Ericaceae, which contains blueberries, cranberries, rhododendrons, heather and heath, manzanitas, and a few others, only form mycorrhizal associations with a certain few fungi that haven't been found to associate with other plants.

Many species of fungi form mycorrhizal relationships with plants, including a lot of the common forest mushrooms in the Basidiomycetes, and the Ascomycetes. A classic example of a mycorrhizal fungi is the exalted truffle, which has to associate with the roots of oak and hazelnut trees to produce it's gourmet delicacy. Many of the species most people think of as"toadstools" are mycorrhizal types, so having mushrooms pop up in your yard might actually be a sign of healthy plants.

What exactly do mycorrhizal fungi do for the plants they associate with?

Increase the number of roots. As noted with the ectomycorrhizas, many of the mycorrhizal fungi stimulate root growth in plants. Dr.Robert Linderman of Oregon State University is a leader in mycorrhizal fungi research, and some of his work shows that the right strain of fungi can actually double the number of roots in potted nursery stock, making the plants more resistant to dryness, and allowing them to establish themselves faster in their new location when they are planted out. This applies to both annual and perennial plants.

Further, the fungi allow plants to take up phosphorus and other nutrients more efficiently. Indeed, Dr.Linderman's work showed that plants in phosphorus-poor soil with mycorrhizal fungi did better than fungi-less plants with adequate phosphorus.

Protect plants from disease. All the exact mechanisms aren't established, but plants with mycorrhizal fungi are less susceptible to diseases, both of the roots and the rest of the plant. Some of the effects must be due to improved nutrition of the plant, while others may be related to substances given off by the fungi, natural antibiotics which keep disease organisms at bay. The physical presence of the fungi may form a natural barrier to disease, as well.

Improve the soil. Dr.Linderman's work describes how many of the mycorrhizal fungi actually penetrate the cells of the roots, creating a sort of "leakage" or exuding of substances from the roots. These substances had various effects on the soil, one of the most important of which was causing soil particles to clump together into aggregates. This clumping effect opened up the soil structure to allow better movement of water and oxygen into the soil.

One particularly interesting aspect was Dr.Linderman's revelation that fungal threads or hyphae from one plant could actually reach out into the soil and connect with threads of other fungal species on other plants. In effect, this meant that as the network of hyphae becomes well established,all the plants in an area would be tied together into one giant community,presumably able to exchange substances and nutrition with each other. This could be at least one aspect of why mixed plant communities often seem to function better than stands of single species. With all plants tied together, different species might exchange with each other, balancing nutrition and moisture amongst the community.

While mycorrhizal fungi were first studied in trees, research now encompasses all types of plants, both annual and perennial. Many strains of mycorrhizal fungi have been isolated, many of which are adapted to specific plant species. More importantly for the consumer, much work is being done by commercial companies, who are culturing mycorrhizal fungi and making them available to growers. This eliminates the variable results of using compost, which didn't always contain the best strains for the plants it was used on. However there are also species of fungi that work with many species of plants.

Different companies have taken different approaches in working with mycorrhizal fungi. Buckman Laboratories sells the species Glomus intraradix as a treatment for turf and nursery plants. Plant Health Care, Inc. uses a second approach by selling mixtures of three Glomus species and a species from the Entrephospora family. They feel that such a mix insures that at least some of these VAM fungi will adapt to a wide range of soil conditions and pH. Bio-Organics is testing strains of many fungi specific for different species of plants, but also have mixes of strains and general purpose types for use on crops for which no specific types have been identified. Thus far, it appears that VAM types are the most useful commercially, with about 90% of the types in use being VAM.

Mycorrhizal fungi don't just affect the plant roots, either. The health of the entire plant is boosted when the right fungi associate with it. Don Chapman at Bio-Organics, one of the companies studying Mycorrhizal fungi, reported results at one grower's grounds in which all pots of test plants with mycorrhizae, accompanied with trace minerals and organic fertilizer, had little or no damage from insects. Plants treated with conventional chemical fertilizers, and lacking mycorrhizal fungi, had considerable insect damage to the leaves. One theory says that insects lack amino acids to digest plant matter and that only sick plants develop high levels of certain amino acids, which stimulates the insects to feed on them. If a leaf is healthy, it will lack the amino acids that stimulate insect feeding behavior and they leave after taking only a taste. Apparently even though the plants without fungi had all the correct nutrients supplied to them chemically, they weren't able to make good use of them without the presence of fungi on their roots.

One of Mr. Chapman's customers, a Master Gardener, reported the yield of his tomatoes doubled with fungi, while ripening time was as much as a week earlier. He also said the tomatoes tasted much better. Similar results have been reported with other crops elsewhere. One grower reported an increase of 6,000 pounds per acre on his sweet potatoes using mycorrhizal fungi.
In my own garden, I applied mycorrhizal fungi and minerals to part of a potato patch, and minerals without fungi to the rest of the patch. All the area with fungi came up faster, bloomed sooner, and there were fewer blanks in the rows. At this writing, the crop has yet to be harvested, so the overall yield isn't known, but the difference in the performance of the plants was striking enough that I'll be very surprised if there isn't some difference in yield.

In the case of perennial plants, one application of the fungi should probably treat the plant for life. With annuals, it's advisable to reapply it every year, to be sure there is enough in the soil to properly inoculate the plants.

The naturally known species of fungi occur in many different soil types and pH ranges, making it highly probable that the commercially available types should also work well in many conditions.
Dr. Linderman also mentioned that some mycorrhizal fungi are even effective in hydroponic situations.

The commercial products can be either liquid or powder, for various means of application, from soil drench to root dips. Bio-Organics has formulations that combine minerals, organic (usually fish) fertilizer and fungi all in one to give the plant an extra boost. The other companies deal mainly with commercial growers, but Dr. Mike Kern at Plant Health Labs says their flower bed drench should work well for home growers as well.

Not only growers, but the environment itself can benefit from using mycorrhizal fungi. With the fungi, much less fertilizer is needed, reducing the sort of over-fertilization that leads to runoff and contamination of ground water. In fact, extra fertilizers may not even have any added effect with the fungi on the job.

While mycorrhizal fungi may not be the absolute cure-all for agriculture, it is certainly the most promising tool to be developed in a very long time, promising to improve the health and yield of plants, reduce the need for fertilizer, improve the soil, and reduce the need for pesticides.
In cell biology, many of the "organelles" (literally, "little organs")of cells are thought to have originally been simple, small cellular organisms that took up residence inside larger ones. Perhaps they were parasites at first, but at some point the relationship became symbiotic, beneficial to both parties. When the large ones replicated, the small ones followed suit, so each new large cell had some of the small ones.

Eventually, they became so interdependent the small ones had become an integral part of the larger cells. An instance considered proof of this is the presence in some species of amoebae of a pair of rod-shaped organelles near the nucleus which look very much like bacteria. Treat the amoeba with a specific substance that kills only bacteria and the amoeba isn't hurt, but the two rod-shaped organelles disintegrate. Only after those organelles are gone does the amoeba die. This suggests the organelles were originally a bacteria-like life form that adapted themselves to living inside the amoeba, until they eventually took over production of a substance, or some other function the amoeba had previously been doing for itself.

It was energy efficient for the amoeba to stop duplicating the the symbiote's efforts, so the amoeba became dependent on the "bacteria," while the "bacteria" lost the ability to live outside the amoeba. Thus, the two organisms became parts of one new form.

It's a truism that patterns repeat in Nature, and this kind of interaction of life, where a species involves itself with another so closely that the two eventually become one, can be seen to repeat at other levels. In this case, we are considering the interaction of soil microflora with plants, and how it fits this pattern.

In the previous articles of this series, about mycorrhizal fungi, we saw that the fungi not only attach themselves to the plant roots, even to the extent of penetrating the cells, they can also send threads out into the soil and interconnect with other fungi attached to the roots of other plants. In essence, they combine entire plant communities into one big super-organism. As they do this, they both use substances from the plants, and provide others to the plants in return. They also translocate photosynthates between plants, as in the case where young trees in a mixed, established forest were found to be receiving a large percentage of their photosynthates from older trees, through the fungal connections. Obviously, this is a very intimately interconnected system, almost resembling the way blood vessels joint different parts of a body. If the fungi are indeed acting as "blood vessels", then it might follow that there would have to be "blood cells" of some sort.

I spent several hours with Dr. Robert Linderman (USDA, attached to Oregon State University) discussing this and related ideas. He pointed out that while the fungi are indeed important to the system, other microflora, such as bacteria, may have a greater role. First, while the fungi provide the connections, it now appears that bacteria travel on and even in the fungal threads, often moving into and out of the plants, both producing and acquiring substances and carrying them into the plants as they go.

But the bacteria almost certainly have a much more important role. Bacteria are commonly thought of as "simple" organisms, yet anyone who has studied them can tell you they are anything but simple. For instance, bacteria can ingest pieces of genetic material directly and incorporate it into their own genetic makeup. That is, they aren't just digesting it and using the amino acids to construct new RNA or DNA, they are taking in whole genes, intact, and incorporating them directly into their own makeup. One proof is in disease-causing bacteria, in which types with a cell wall not resistant to certain antibiotics could be mixed with genetic material from dead cells that had cell walls resistant to the antibiotic, and in short order they had picked up the genetic material and had developed the resistant type of cell wall. Bacteria have also been shown able to metabolize an incredible range of substances, including asphalt, crude oil, even metals. Bacteria can produce chemical compounds that human laboratories cannot, or could only do with great expense and labor.

Bacteria may be uncomplicated in appearance, but they are great metabolizers. Is it any wonder, then, that other life forms would find ways to make use of that ability to metabolize?

Dr. Linderman discussed the role of bacteria and other single celled organisms and concluded that they were as important, if not more so, to the plants than mycorrhizal fungi. Some types we recognize already, such as the rhizobium that colonize the roots of legumes and fix nitrogen. But the full range of what bacteria can do in connection with plants hasn't been worked out yet. In addition to fixing nitrogen, it is likely that they help make other elemental plant nutrients, such as phosphorus, potassium, etc., more readily available to plants, much as the mycorrhizal fungi do. But why couldn't they work with more complex substances?

Suppose you were told to build a house within a certain length of time and were given a choice of piles of materials to work from. The first pile contains only raw logs. You would have to cut them into lumber, finish the lumber and cut it to the needed lengths to be able to build the house.
The second pile, however, contains prefabricated sections of walls, pre-built ceiling joists, etc. A few extra pieces might need to be added or removed here and there, but mostly they can simply be put into their proper positions and be nailed together.
Unless you just like to do things the hard way, you would choose the second pile. With the first pile, you would probably exhaust yourself and might be able to build anything more than basic shelter. With the second pile, you could probably construct a much larger, more elaborate house with less effort.

Why should a plant be any different? Nature is conservative in the extreme, always choosing the route that uses the least energy, whenever possible. If a plant had a way to ingest pre-formed materials into itself, saving it the energy needed to assemble the compounds, why shouldn't it do that? We think of plants as natural synthesizers, taking in water, minerals and carbon dioxide and converting them into sugars, proteins, vitamins, etc...
That life is interconnected has been a common philosophical and spiritual theme down through the ages, but the study of mycorrhizal fungi has greatly strengthened it as a biological one as well.

Work on mycorrhizal fungi has been carried out more extensively and for a longer time in forestry than in other branches of horticulture, as was briefly noted in part one of this article. Work on the ecological niches of the fungi have shown that they may be far more vital to plant growth and the ecology in general than ever considered before. Indeed, their relationships to plants may actually be necessary for some species to be able grow at all.

Lon Rombough

The author of this article wrote a book titled The Grape Grower

http://www.bunchgrapes.com/publications.html

Sunday, November 9, 2008

Iron Chlorosis Signals Problems [EXT]

I included this site in this post to help us understand Iron deficiencies.

http://www.ext.vt.edu/departments/envirohort/factsheets2/fertilizer/nov86pr1.html


Iron Chlorosis Signals Problems


Contact: Diane Relf, Extension Specialist, Environmental Horticulture Posted April 1997 Chlorosis means "becoming green." The term was first applied to a human condition in which the skin took on a greenish hue. Today it is more frequently used to describe plants whose normal color is green, but which have a condition which results in a lack of green color in some leaves. Chlorosis in plants results from nutrient deficiency, insufficient light, or certain virus diseases. The most frequent cause of chlorosis linked to nutrient deficiency is iron chlorosis. This develops when a plant is unable to absorb enough iron from the soil. Sometimes the soil does not contain enough iron; but most often iron is in the soil but in a chemical form which makes it unavailable to the plant. Soils with high pH (alkaline) often bind iron in a form plants cannot use. Most plants do not develop iron chlorosis in neutral (pH 7) or slightly acid soil, but begin to develop yellowing as soils become more and more alkaline (pH>7). Such plants include rose, iris, firethorn, spirea, apple and peach.


Some plants require very acid soil and develop iron chlorosis when they are grown in soils which are not acid enough. Such plants include azaleas, rhododendron, holly, hydrangea, blueberry and pin oak.


Iron chlorosis is different from other types of chlorosis; it affects young, new leaves first. Other forms of chlorosis often affect older foliage initially. Leaf color of plants with chlorosis ranges from yellow-green to almost white. Leaves showing iron chlorosis often retain green veins. In severe cases, leaf margins may be brown and die, and eventually entire plants may be killed. Even in mild cases where yellowing is slight, growth is reduced.


Iron chlorosis is usually associated with deficiency or unavailability of iron in the soil but it may also appear when roots are damaged by overwatering, poor drainage, or overfertilization. Any condition that kills roots or does not allow feeder root development can lead to iron chlorosis.Treat iron chlorosis by eliminating the cause. A soil test will determine soil pH. Alkaline soil, or soil which is not acid enough, may be treated with sulfur or iron sulfate to make it more acidic. Poorly drained soils should be improved and plants subject to iron chlorosis should be watered carefully. The color of plants several months after soil is amendmended will indicate need for future treatment.


To achieve temporary improvement in leaf color, there are materials available for providing iron quickly to plants. Iron chelates are organic compounds containing readily-absorbed iron. They can be placed in the soil for absorption by the roots or sprayed in dilute form directly on the leaves. Since the chemical concentration of the compound may vary with manufacturer, carefully follow directions given on the package.


When fertilizer is sprayed onto leaves the process is called foliar fertilization. It is a good way to supply some nutrients, including iron, to plants rapidly, but foliar feeding is not a substitute for good soil conditions. Foliar fertilizer can supplement soil nutrition at a critical time, but to eliminate iron chlorosis, correct the conditions causing it.


(Prepared by Virginia Nathan, Extension Technician, and Diane Relf, Extension Specialist, Environmental Horticulture, Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA 24061-0327.)

Thursday, November 6, 2008

Fertilizer - Feeding the Soil - Part 2

by Richard Chew




I knew embarking in such a hobby, I'll need to relearn good practises and unlearn some bad ones to create a successful garden.


Well thats the reason why I am posting this Part 2 version.




As I am writing, I have started experimenting some new fertilizers to treat some special conditions on my rose plant.


I didn't know that Vermicompost fertilizer is easily available in major nursery. I bought it immediately as some of plants were in not so good shape after some continous heavy rain in September. The soil was pretty soaked with water. It is so bad that it is similar to those that is picked up from the river bank.






I replaced the soil with new ones as I didn't think the soil condition was reversible. Hopefully my rose can fully recover.

However for those that were not so critical, I tried Vermicompost as a means for preventive measures.


Vermicompost is natural and it is more simplified Nitrogen composition compares to those Organic manure. And it is very effective in binding soils in clumps to form better soil aeration and drainage.




Another thing that I add was the water soluble Miracid N30-P10-K10 fertilizer to increase the acidity of the soil because some of the roses were turning yellow, even the dainthus were turning yellow too.



After a couple of weeks of continous fertilizing, the results were quite tangible. Firstly the drainage has improved despite the continous wet weather. Secondly the top soil is more clumpy, rather than flat as flatness and compact at top soil is sign of too much water.






The leaves vein started to green.



For the healthier ones with numerous new shoots, I started with water soluble N10-P54-K10 by Shultz. I use very little about 1/4 teaspoon, but increase the frequency to 2 times a day. I started this a little too late, as some of the buds doesn't look so good. If I started earlier before the buds mature, perhaps it may produce better result.





Nevertheless it didn't look badly deformed when it bloomed. The bloom shape still intact and petals were looking good.


Just as I am posting this, I am also experimenting the effectiveness of some other fertilizer, especially for more established roses to increase the rate of vermicomposting. It should be something that is economical and at same time one that the earthworms love.







Read continuation in Part 3





Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Useful Tips (EXT)

I found some useful tips from Plant Answers site created by Dr Jerry Parsons.

http://plantanswers.tamu.edu/trees/rose.html


Rose

1. Q. As the weather gets hotter, my roses look worse. What can I do to insure that they survive the summer?

A. Poor cultural practices and neglect during summer months will weaken plants and make it harder for them to survive. Here are some suggestions on summer care of roses:

As flowers fade and petals fall remove old flowers. Otherwise, food and energy will go into seed production rather than plant growth and flower production.

When removing spent flowers cut just above the second five-leaflet leaf above the main cane or branch.


Use a complete fertilizer such as 10-10-5, 15-10-10 or similar formulations at the rate of 1 1/4 pounds per 100 square feet just as new growth starts in spring then apply about 1/3 to
During hot, dry weather water rose beds thoroughly every week to a depth of 8-10 inches.
Control blackspot and mildew by spraying with Benlate or Funginex every 7-10 days from the time new growth starts in the spring and continue throughout the growing season until frost.
So for optimum flower production this summer and fall give your roses that bit of added attention.


2. Q. I think my rose bushes need an overhaul - - they look terrible! Is there anyway to "supercharge" the bushes so they will bloom this fall?

A. The cooler temperatures of fall will stimulate rose bush growth and intensify the color of the rose blooms. Many people do not prepare their roses for this second spring so they miss really the most spectacular, longest lasting bloom period. Roses should be pruned and groomed from now until no later than September 20. Fall pruning is lighter than in the spring. Cut about one-fourth to one-third of the bush. When pruning miniatures, other than cleaning them out, simply cut off all the blooms. When pruning standard size roses remove all of the blooms and bloom pods. When removing the recommended one-fourth of the bush cut all canes back to pencil-size wood, remove any crossing canes which might rub and damage adjoining canes and remove any dead or diseased wood. The general shape of a rose bush should be open-centered or vase-like with canes evenly distributed around the outside. To prolong the bloom period you may want to prune only one-half of your rose bush at a time then wait a week to complete the process. The half which was pruned first will bloom first generally 45 days after pruning occurred. Mid-October should begin the peak rose bloom season. Remove and dispose of all diseased leaves with black spots on the foliage. Black spot fungus must be prevented rather than cured. Prevention is easily accomplished by a 7 - l0 day spray schedule with Funginex fungicide (Black Spot is a fungus disease) and Orthene insecticide for thrips (these cause blooms to stay closed or be mis-shapened). Spraying should continue until the first hard freeze occurs. By September, the spray interval should be shortened to every 7 days since disease is more prevalent. After fall pruning has been done, give the bushes a "shot in the arm" with the addition of fertilizer. Feeding with a water soluble fertilizer should occur every two weeks. Follow instructions by mixing one tablespoon of water soluble fertilizer per gallon of water and pour a gallon of solution around each plant. Don¹t feed with either liquid or dry fertilizers after October 15th so that growth can slow and harden for the winter cold. Water and wait for the beauty of fall - - that's all you have to do to "supercharge" your rose bushes.

3. Q. What are the best roses to grow?

A. Once you decide which rose type you want to plant (most folks will plant a hybrid tea or grandiflora), you will need to know which are the best varieties within those classifications. I not only have a listing of the best rose varieties for this area but also a POP (proof of the pudding) rating as compelled by the best rose growers in the state. Any POP rating above 8.0 is spectacular. Those rose varieties with POP above 7 are considered excellent. The best of the hybrid teas and grandifloras include:

First Prize - a pink-blend colored rose with a long pointed bud. It is a medium sized bush that is somewhat susceptible to black spot and mildew. It is, nevertheless, one of the top rated roses in the world with a POP of 9.1.

Color Magic - a pink blend rose with a "changing color" character with deeper colors of ivory to pink spreading and intensifying as petals are exposed to sunlight. The POP of Color Magic is 8.0.

Fragrant Cloud - This variety produces an orange-red bloom on a medium size bush. The bloom is extremely fragrant and Fragrant Cloud rates a POP of 8.1.

Uncle Joe (Toro)- The best of the red roses with a POP of 7.9.

Bewitched- A medium pink rose that grows on a medium sized bush. It merits a POP of 7.2.

Double Delight - A stunning rose which has a cream colored bloom with red edges. It is one of the most favored of all rose varieties and has a POP rating of 9.0.

Candlelight - A deep yellow bloom which is tinged with pink especially in the fall. Blooms are produced on a tall, vigorous plant. No POP available.

Christian Dior - A medium red bloom with an ovoid pointed bud. It has a large flower and an abundance of blooms. The POP rating is 7.1. The edges of the petals burn in hot dry settings, so it is advisable to plant where it will receive some afternoon shade.

Queen Elizabeth - This is the most popular rose of the Grandiflora class. It has a medium pink bloom, produces an abundance of blooms and rates a POP of 9.1.

White Masterpiece - Very large (up to 8 inches across), double centered white flower. It's POP is only 7.3 because of double-centered, non-displayable blooms.

Montezuma - A double, deep coral-pink colored bloom with 32-40 petals. Montezuma comes very close to the grandiflora ideal with a POP of 7.1.

Touch of Class - It is a pink blend which normally has super form. When it has been in commerce long enough to have a rating it should certainly be a POP of over 9.0.

In the floribunda category the winners are Fire King, an orange red with a POP of 7.5;
Gene Boerner, a medium pink rose that grows on a very tall and bushy plant--this variety has a POP of 8.8, one of the highest rated floribunda;
Little Darling, which would seem misnamed since it is an extremely tall and spreading bush with a profusion of yellow blend blooms of a hybrid tea form, has a POP of 8.8;
Pink Rosette is an older variety with low height and bushy pattern of growth yet it is extremely floriferous (it is not unusual for 20-25 blooms to be on one cane; and, last but not least,
Rose Parade, a pink blend bloom on a bush of medium height, has a POP of 7.7.
In the climbing rose category, the varieties Blaze (medium red), Climbing America (coral pink) and Don Juan (deep red) are recommended. Some of the best miniatures are Beauty Secret (medium red), Dreamglo (red blend), Party Girl (yellow blend), Starina (orange-red) and Starglo (white).

Miniatures have become very popular in the last few years. As a result hundreds of new cultivars have bee introduced with different results.
The top five exhibition winners in the country are Jean Kenneally, a tall apricot blend with a POP of 7.9;
Minnie Pearl, a tall and bushy plant with pink blend blooms and a POP 8.1;
Snow Bride, a medium sized white bloom with a POP of 8.0;
Party Girl, a yellow blend on a medium sized bush and a POP of 8.0;
and Little Jackie, a vigorous, tall bush that produces a light petaled, orange blend bloom. Others, in order of preference, are Rainbow's End, a yellow blend on a medium sized plant and a POP of 8.0
and Starina, a small to medium, orange red whose POP is the highest in the world at 9.6.
Two others that produce well in this climate are Kathy Robinson, a tall, bushy plant that has pink blend blooms with a POP of 8.7
and Over-The-Rainbow, a medium size plant with a bushy growth habit which produces a red blend colored rose with a POP of 8.5.

4. Q: When do you prune roses? Climbing roses?

A: Hybrid tea, Grandiflora and Floribunda roses require annual pruning in the spring just prior to bud break. If rose bushes are pruned too early, injury from late frost may make a second pruning necessary. Climbing roses should be pruned in the fall, any time after cold weather sets in. Old rambler roses should be pruned immediately after flowering.

5. Q: Leaves are eaten off my rose bush. Sometimes the whole leaf blade is gone, and other times, the leaf is half eaten. What type of insect is eating my plants?

A: Probably some type of chewing insect. Examine plants frequently to see if any pests can be found. Treatment depends on insect. Leaf cutting bees or ants are a common problem.

6. Q: Should I or could I pour pickle juice around roses?

A: Pickle juice would be acid, so it would lower the pH somewhat, but sulfur would be a better choice. You would need to know the actual pH before you did anything.

7. Q: When and how do you start rose cuttings?

A: Roses can be started from terminal cuttings or leaf bud cuttings. However, because all hybrid roses are grafted onto a common root stock you should buy the variety you want that is already grafted.

8. Q: Does the petal count of roses determine the number of days before subsequent blooms occur?

A: Yes, on hybrid teas. According to the Rose Society if a flower has forty petal blooms when cut, then it will take 40 days to rebloom. However, this is a broad rule of thumb.

9. Q: Can fish oil be used to feed roses?

A: No, not strong enough. Suggest 12-12-12 or 10-20-10.

10. Q: Do you need organic material, iron and nitrogen fertilizer for roses?

A: Needs organic material; iron is not a usual problem in most rose beds; suggest 12-12-12 or 10-20-10 fertilizer rather than straight nitrogen.

11. Q. I have heard about the great attributes of old-fashioned or antique roses. What do you know about them?

A. Though these plants do have some redeeming features, they are not what most people want in a garden rose. Many consider Belinda's Rose (Belinda's Dream) to be the best (most desirable qualities of disease resistant, fragrance, durability, flower form) rose in the world.

12. Q. I think my rose bushes need an overhaul - - they look terrible! Is there anyway to "supercharge" the bushes so they will bloom this fall?

A. The cooler temperatures of fall will stimulate rose bush growth and intensify the color of the rose blooms. Many people do not prepare their roses for this second spring so they miss really the most spectacular, longest lasting bloom period. Roses should be pruned and groomed from now until no later than September 20. Fall pruning is lighter than in the spring. Cut about one-fourth to one-third of the bush. When pruning miniatures, other than cleaning them out, simply cut off all the blooms. When pruning standard size roses remove all of the blooms and bloom pods. When removing the recommended one-fourth of the bush cut all canes back to pencil-size wood, remove any crossing canes which might rub and damage adjoining canes and remove any dead or diseased wood. The general shape of a rose bush should be open-centered or vase-like with canes evenly distributed around the outside. To prolong the bloom period you may want to prune only one-half of your rose bush at a time then wait a week to complete the process. The half which was pruned first will bloom first generally 45 days after pruning occurred. Mid-October should begin the peak rose bloom season. Remove and dispose of all diseased leaves with black spots on the foliage. Black spot fungus must be prevented rather than cured. Prevention is easily accomplished by a 7-10 day spray schedule with Funginex fungicide (Black Spot is a fungus disease) and Orthene insecticide for thrips (these cause blooms to stay closed or be mis-shapened). Spraying should continue until the first hard freeze occurs. By September, the spray interval should be shortened to every 7 days since disease is more prevalent. After fall pruning has been done, give the bushes a "shot in the arm" with the addition of fertilizer. Feeding with a water soluble fertilizer should occur every two weeks. Follow instructions by mixing one tablespoon of water soluble fertilizer per gallon of water and pour a gallon of solution around each plant Don't feed with either liquid or dry fertilizers after October 15th so that growth can slow and harden for the winter cold. Water and wait for the beauty of fall - - that's all you have to do to "supercharge" your rose bushes.

13. Q. I have weird looking leaves on the growing tips of my rose bushes. The affected leaves have a whitish-grayish, dust- like substance on them. What is causing this problem and how can I solve it?

A. You have a BIG problem but a common one. Pest control is one of the major problems facing area rose growers. Insects such as thrips damage flower buds and cause them not to open or to form odd-shaped blooms. These insects must be prevented rather than waiting until damage occurs before acting. Once damaged, blooms are not salvageable. The same is true for foliage diseases--prevention rather than cure should be the rule. The most notorious of the rose foliage diseases are black spot and powdery mildew, which can severely damage most of leaves and impair the plant's ability to produce a bounty of large, beautiful blooms. The black spot fungus disease is prevented by applying triforine (Ortho Funginex) or benomyl (Greenlight Systemic Fungicide) spray every 7-10 days. Powdery mildew, the affliction which you describe as affecting your roses, is best controlled with bayleton (Greenlight Fung-Away) or benomyl (Greenlight Systemic Fungicide). Apply Orthene, diazinon or malathion for insect control when necessary. Do not apply a mixture of Orthene and Funginex more than two weeks in a row. Applying insecticides and fungicides separately is safer for plant health. Also, using insecticide on the buds only, rather than the entire bush, gets super results for insect control. These pesticide sprays are a necessity if rose growers expect an abundance of perfect blooms on disease-free plants.

14. Q. My 22 hybrid tea roses and five climbing roses have been damaged by a late freeze. The new green growth, leaves about three inches, have turned brown and some of the canes on the hybrid teas are black and soft. In 12 years of growing rosese I have not experienced any damage this severe. Should I remove the brown leaves and blackened canes now or wait until warmer weather? Should I fertilize to encourage new growth now or wait until new growth appears on it's on, hopefully they are not dead. What setbacks am I to expect?

A: Wait until the plants recover and begin a new flush of growth -- then cut all dead wood above the flushing area. If you want to do something now, it is a safe bet to remove blackened, withered wood. However, some buds may be damaged, even on green wood, to a point they will not initiate foliage. BEWARE that you don't forget most roses are grafted so if sprouts and shoots arise only from beneath the graft union, you have lost the rose. I would wait on fertilization until after the sprouting has begun then feed as you would normally.

15. Q. I have a Fragrant Cloud rose that has white spots covering the older canes, and it has spread to some of the leaves. The smaller canes have turned brown and died back. The spots are not moving (not bugs). Any clues?

A: You are dealing with "critters" on your Fragrant Cloud (GOOD CHOICE!!) rose called scale. They are aphid-like covered with a white sheild. When you prune next February, try to remove all affected branches. If you just have one bush, you can rub all you see off with your hand. You can direct spray them with an insecticide such as Orthene or direct spray with a summer oil spray. BE SURE to be careful and FOLLOW label instructions with the summer oil spray or you can damage your plant to the point of death. Roses are having a hard time with these hot temperatures but summer prune them in September for beautiful fall bloom in cool temperatures.

16. Q: Could you please enlighten me on the history of the yellow rose of texas?

A: The "Yellow Rose of Texas" according to the history was NOT a flower but a lady-of-the-night who kept Santa Anna "occupied" to delay battle so that reinforcements could arise. Ironically, the yellow rose is the weakest of all rose colors -- horticulturists and rose breeders are constantly trying to find a good, yellow rose. In Dr. William Welch's book, Antique Roses For the South, he indicates that "Pioneers moving westward often took 'Harrison's Yellow' with them, and it persists in old California gardens today, testifying to the transcontinental trek to new frontiers. Some historians consider 'Harrison's Yellow' to be the "Yellow Rose of Texas".